Electrical Conduit

An electrical conduit is a tube used for carrying electrical wire for power or communications. These are lengths of solid tubing used for housing, protecting, and covering electrical wiring and cables in power distribution systems.

Types of Electrical Conduit
There are different types of electrical conduits manufactured in the global market depending on their end application. The different types are:
• PVC conduit: PVC conduits are a popular type of electrical conduit used for above ground and underground applications. These conduits are made of high quality PVC and are flexible in nature. The pipes have high electrical strength, impact resistance, tensile strength. These conduits are available in different sizes with diameters ranging from 1/2" to 6". More
• Rigid Steel conduit: This heavy duty pipe has threaded ends. The size can be determined by the inside diameter measurement. The conduit is available in different sizes including 1/2, 3/4, 1, 1 1/2, 2, 2 1/2, 3, 3 1/2, 4, 5, and 6.
• Electrical metallic tubing (EMT): These conduits are relatively easy to bend, cut and form. This light-gauge pipe is also known as a thin wall conduit. These conduits are available from ½ inch to 4 inch diameter.
• Non-metallic conduit or PVC conduit: These conduits are circular in shape and generally corrugated. These conduits are used in under ground installations. These conduits are popular because they provide high strength, have a low absorption rate, watertight joints, and have low installation costs.
• Galvanized rigid conduit (GRC): These metallic conduits are coated with zinc for increasing resistance to corrosion and abrasion.
• Intermediate metal conduit (IMC): These have circular raceways that are rigid and also have thinner walls as compared to rigid metal conduits.
Materials of Construction
Electrical conduits are made of a variety of materials depending on the end use. These are :
• Stainless steel
• Lighter steel
• PVC or plastic
• Aluminum
• Nylon
• Polyester
• Polyethylene
Electrical Conduit Size
Electrical conduits for electrical use range from 3/8" to 6" in size. They vary in terms of shape and function also.

Electrical Conduit and fittings Selection Guide
There are certain important parameters that a buyer must consider while selecting electrical conduits and fittings. These are:
• Size analysis
• Schedules analysis
• Fitting ends analysis
• Features analysis


Cutting and shortening PVC

When laying PVC conduit, and in some remodel jobs, it sometimes becomes necessary to cut the conduit in a tight place, too tight to use a handsaw or hacksaw. One thing that works extremely well is to use a "cable saw," available and camping and outdoors stores. It is used by campers to cut down limbs for firewood, etc. It is basically a cable attached to two handles. But who carries such a tool at the jobsite? An excellent alternative is a piece of nylon mason's line, that is normally used for layout of footings, etc. It works by heating the PVC up by friction. Simply pull it back in forth until you cut through.

Another situation comes when it is necessary to shorten a piece of PVC with the wires still in it. (perhaps it is a long run, wires are immovable etc) Take a piece of emt, ridgid, or IMC that is big enough for the wires but fits inside the PVC and slide it inside the PVC far enough that it protects the wires as you cut the PVC. (CAREFULLY)

Electrical Fittings
Electrical Fittings are the products, which are used for fitting various electrical devices like switches, fans, wires, tube lights etc. These components are available in a wide variety of shapes and sizes and materials. Before selecting electrical fittings for any hazardous location, the exact nature and concentrations of the flammable materials must be considered. An electrical fitting that is safe for installation in an atmosphere of combustible dust may not be safe for use in an atmosphere containing flammable vapors or gases. Thus, electrical fittings are specifically designed considering various hazards.

While buying these items a buyer must always keep in mind the quality of the component, the price of the item and credibility of the supplier. China, Hong Kong, Taiwan and Germany are the leading manufacturing countries of electrical fitting components. These components can be classified as follows:
• Brass
• Copper
• Stainless Steel
• Plastic
• Thermoplastic
The various types of electrical fittings are: • AC Power Connectors
• Cable Protectors
• Cable Clamps
• Cable Ties
• Cable and Wire Accessories
• Electrical Lugs
• Electrical Dimmers
• Electrical Ballasts
• Electric Switch Plates
• Electrical Conduit
• Electrical Grommets
• Electric Meters
• Electrical Plugs
• Electrical Busbar
• Fuse Holders
• Junction Boxes
• Power Strips
• Terminal Blocks

Electrical Cords
An electrical cord is a flexible and insulated cable, having a plug either at one or both ends and helps to connect an electrical device with a source of electricity. There is a wide variety of electrical cords available in the market in varying lengths and thickness for carrying specific electrical load.

Types
There are different types of Electric cord manufactured all over the world in different sizes and lengths. Some of them are:
• Extension cords
• AC Power cords
• DC power cords
Electric Cord Applications
These cords are used in different applications including:
• Home appliances
• Computers
• Electronic gadgets and devices
• Electric tools
• Printers

Switchgears
Switchgear are a type of electrical distribution devices used for converting incoming electrical power into several smaller circuits. They are also used for providing overload protection in the form of fuses or circuit breakers. The term is also used for both de-energizing equipment to allow work to be done and for clearing faults downstream. Switchgear vary in different parameters including number of panels, mounting style, and electrical specifications.


Types
Switchgear can be of different types including:
• A simple open air circuit breaker
• Gas insulated switchgear (GIS)
• Oil insulated switchgear
• Vacuum circuit breakers

Switchgear Locations
These electrical distribution devices can be anywhere that isolation and protection may be required. These include generators, transformers, substations, motors, and high or medium voltage distribution networks. Different types of switchgear are often used by the power utility as protection against line to ground, phase to phase, or line to neutral faults. They are also used for heavy industry purposes.

Fuse and Circuit Breakers
A fuse contains a metallic element, which melts if the current exceeds a specific amperage. Circuit breaker is a mechanical switching device, which breaks currents under specific, abnormal circuit conditions.

Applications
Switchgears are used in diverse applications and industries. Some of them are: For example, some devices are used to
• Power lighting systems
• UPS
• Inverter applications
Other Types
• Circuit Breakers
• Electrical Fuse
• Electrical Relays
• Electrical Switches


Electrical Wires
Electrical wire is a group of metallic conductors. They are used to carry electrical power from one place to other, from manufacturing unit to the consuming unit. They are used in each and every field where electricity is used either on small scale or on large scale. They have become so important that without their use we can't spend one hour. Electrical wires are of different types based on their uses like high voltage power cables which are used to carry electricity from one place to other, low voltage cables which are generally used in house wiring, control cables etc. Different types of electrical wires are used for different electrical appliances like electric motors, refrigerators, fans, bulbs etc.

There are various types of electrical wires in the market which we use in our daily life. All the wires are made of a conductor generally aluminum or copper and an insulation covering the conductor. The conductors used in them may be solid or stranded. The insulation material is made of some kind of plastic or rubber. We use different types of electric wires for different purposes like braided wires, fuse wires, shielded wires etc. Here is given a list of wires which are generally used by us.

General Properties of Electrical Wires:
• They are made of a conductor and an insulation.
• They are good conductors of electricity.
• They are flexible as well as strong.
Use of Electrical Wires:
There is not a single field or industry where electrical wires aren't used. They are used for the functioning and running of a number of machines and devices. Here is the list of some important industries where they are used:
• Electrical and Electronics Industry
• Telecommunication Industry
• IT Industry
• Transport Industry
• Metal Industry
• Automobile Industry
• Heavy Machinery Industry

How To Select Cables

Choosing a proper and an adequate wire or cable for any purpose is of very much importance. And if you are choosing it for the electrical purpose then it is of utmost value to give proper care and attention. Different electrical appliances require different current and voltage requirements to operate. So for different devices the cable used should also be different. Selecting the proper cable is of so much importance because it is connected with the security of your house or other buildings.



Important points to take care of before purchasing a electrical cable:In selecting a wire or cable for primary and secondary power circuits certain requirements should be kept in mind. They are:
Type of Installation
Voltage Rating
Ampacity Requirements
Heating Conditions
Special Conditions

Type of installationThe method you are going to follow to install a cable is a determining factor for the selection of cable. You may use the cable in underground applications, outdoor applications, or indoor applications. In each of these applications the requirement of cables are different. You must give attention towards some particular points.
Outdoor applications: For outdoor applications the cable is directly buried under ground or installed in over head racks. In underground wiring the cables are too prone to prevent it from moisture. Once moisture enter the cable it will create problems in long running of cable. So the cables selected should be suitable for wet installation conditions.
Indoor applications: Cables used in indoor applications are either installed in conduit or in over head racks. The interlocked armor cable is a useful option today. It is very demanding and advantageous as well. The armor rectifies the requirement of a conduit and it is totally a self contained unit. Besides its specific advantages it need 20 to 50% less cost requirement than the traditional conduit system.

Voltage requirement

The voltage determination for the electrical device is necessary because it guide you in buying the proper cable. The type and thickness of insulation is determined by the voltage factor. It also helps in determining the minimum size of conductor that is suitable for small loads. Besides that it is also important to know that whether grounded or ungrounded neutral is used.Ampacity requirementsDetermining the final conductor size require the ampacity of KVA loading. The power factor, current load, and KVA load should be known prior to finalize the size of conductor. Sometimes the cable size is determined by voltage drop rather than only by heating. In any uncertain situations the size is determined separately by voltage drop and by heating, and then the bigger size must be chosen.Heating conditionsHeating conditions include the external thermal conditions which are responsible for determining the temperature increment of a cable. The external factors affect the lasting and proper functioning of cables. Some important factors which affect the selection of cables:

Ambient Temperature
Presence of Artificial Cooling
Number of Cables in a Duct Bank
Proximity to other Cables
Thermal Conductivity of Soil or other Surrounding Medium
Depth of Buried Cable
Nature of Surrounding Atmosphere
Special conditionsExcept all the conditions and situations we discussed here, there may be some other special conditions which might affect the performance of a cable. You must also consider those points to ensure the better life of your cables. Some of the common conditions are:

Presence of boilers, steam pipes or other big source of heat.
Effect of magnetic material like pipes.
Presence of corrosive substance in the surrounding.
Interference occurring in telephone cables due to adjacent power cables.
Some buying tips for cable and wire purchasingWhile preparing for giving the final order for wire or cable you must be sure of the following information so that you get the correct material.

Voltage Rating:

If the voltage rating is above 5000V, check whether cable is shielded or not. In case of voltage rating like 8000V, 15000V, 25000V or 30000V, will the cable be provided grounded neutral or ungrounded neutral.
Conductor type and size: The size and type of conductor used in these cables must be known.

The type of insulation: There are various materials used for insulation of wires and cables and some are specific to particular types of uses. So the type of insulation must be known before purchasing.

Type of protective covering: Different cables need different types and levels of covering. It is very much dependent on the use of cables. So you should know about the covering of cables.

Total length of each item and individual cutting length desired: The total length of the cable should be known before the purchase so that you may be confirmed that how much bundles or packets you have to order. Delivery requirements: The timely and safely delivery of the goods is of much importance and you should be confirmed about that before finalizing the deal

Volt Branch

The 110-120-volt branch circuits go through fuses or breakers, which are labeled either 15 or 20 amps. The 15-amp branches go to ceiling lamps and wall receptacles in rooms where less energy-demanding devices, such as table lamps, are found. The larger 20-amp circuits go to receptacles in the kitchen, dining, and laundry areas where heavy-duty appliances are used.A 15-amp circuit can handle a total of 1,800 watts, while a 20-amp circuit can handle a total of 2,400 watts, but these figures represent circuits that are fully loaded. In practice, you should limit the load on a 15-amp circuit to no more than 1,440 watts, and the load on a 20-amp line should exceed no more than 1,920 watts.How can you know the load on a circuit? Add up the individual wattages for all lamps and appliances plugged into each circuit. When computing the load on each branch circuit, allow for motor-driven appliances that draw more current when the motor is just starting up than when it's running. A refrigerator, for example, might draw up to 15 amps initially but will quickly settle down to around 4 amps. Suppose the refrigerator is plugged into a 20-amp branch circuit and a 1,000-watt electric toaster (which draws a little more than 8 amps) is also plugged into that circuit. If the refrigerator motor starts while the toaster is toasting, the total current load will exceed the current-carrying capacity of the circuit, and the fuse will blow or the circuit breaker will trip.Keep reading to learn about proper safety practices when you're working with your home electricity system.

How to Do Home Electrical Repairs

by Fix-It Club
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Please copy/paste the following text to properly cite this How Stuff Works article:
Club, Fix-It. "How to Do Home Electrical Repairs." 02 May 2006. HowStuffWorks.com. 24 July 2008.
Inside this Article
1. Electrical Repair Basics
2. Electrical Safety Tips
3. How to Restore a Circuit and Cope With a Power Outage
4. How to Check Receptacle Polarity and Replace a Receptacle
5. How to Replace a Wall Switch
6. How to Rewire a Lamp
7. See more »
7. How to Replace an Incandescent Light
8. How to Install a Fluorescent Light
9. How to Repair a Doorbell
10. How to Install a Ceiling Fan
11. See all General Repairs articles
Home & Garden Videos
· More Home & Garden Videos »
Your home's plumbing and electrical systems may seem as different as any two things could be. But there are significant parallels. Water enters your home through a pipe under pressure, and, when you turn on a tap, the water flows at a certain rate (gallons per minute). Electricity enters your home through wires, also under pressure (called voltage, measured in volts). When you turn on an electrical device, the electricity flows at a certain rate (current, measured in amperes, or amps).Unlike water, which is used as it comes from the tap, electricity is meant to do work: It is converted from energy to power, measured in watts. Since household electrical consumption is relatively high, the unit of measure most often used is the kilowatt, which is equal to 1,000 watts. The total amount of electrical energy you use in any period is measured in terms of kilowatt-hours (kwh).

The instrument that records how much electricity you use is called an electric meter. This meter tells the power company how much electricity they need to charge you for. There are two types of electric meters in general use. One type displays a row of small dials on its face with individual indicators. Each meter dial registers the kilowatt-hours of electrical energy. For example, if you leave a 100-watt bulb burning for 10 hours, the meter will register 1 kilowatt-hour (10x100 = 1,000 watt-hours, or 1 kwh). Each dial registers a certain number of kilowatt-hours of electrical energy. From right to left on most meter faces, the far right is the one that counts individual kilowatt-hours from 1 to 10; the next one counts the electricity from 10 to 100 kilowatt-hours; the third dial counts up to 1,000; the fourth counts up to 10,000; and the dial at the extreme left counts kilowatt-hours up to 100,000. If the arrow on a dial is between two numbers, the lower number should always be read.
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The second type of electric meter performs the same function, but, instead of having individual dials, it has numerals in slots on the meter face, much like an odometer in a car. This meter is read from left to right, and the numbers indicate total electrical consumption. Some meters also use a multiplying factor -- the number that appears must be multiplied by ten, for instance, for a true figure in kilowatt-hours. Once you know how to read your meter, you can verify the charges on your electric bill and become a better watchdog of electrical energy consumption in your home.Three main lines (older houses may have two) are responsible for supplying 110-120/220-240 volts AC (alternating current) to your home. The exact voltage varies depending on several external factors. This three-wire system provides you with 110-120-volt power for lighting, receptacles, and small appliances as well as 220-240-volt power for air conditioning, an electric range, a clothes dryer, a water heater, and, in some homes, electric heating.Electricity enters your home through the power company's service equipment, which is simply a disconnect device mounted in an approved enclosure. It's used to disconnect the service from the interior wiring system. Usually called a main fuse, main breaker, main disconnect, or often just "the main," this disconnect might be a set of pull-out fuses, a circuit breaker, or a large switch.Although main disconnects can be mounted outdoors in a weatherproof box, they are nearly always inside the house in a large enclosure that also contains the fuses or circuit breakers, which handle the distribution of power throughout the building. This is called a main entrance panel, a main box, or an entrance box. The three wires from the meter enter this box. Two of them -- the heavily insulated black and red lines -- are attached to the tops of a parallel pair of exposed heavy copper bars, called buses, at the center of the box. These two lines are the "live," or "hot," wires. The third wire, generally bare, is the "neutral." It is attached to a separate grounding bar, or bus, that is a silver-color strip in the main box. In most homes this ground bus is actually connected to the ground -- the earth -- by a heavy solid copper wire clamped to a cold water pipe or to an underground bar or plate.Overload ProtectionPower is distributed through your house through various electrical circuits that start in the main entrance panel. The 110-120-volt circuits have two conductors -- one neutral (white) wire and one hot (black) wire. The 220-240-volt circuits may have two hot wires alone or a third, neutral wire may be added. In all cases, the hot lines are attached directly to the hot main buses. The neutral wire is always connected to the ground bus and never, under any circumstances, should it pass through a fuse or circuit breaker.

open to interrupt the flow of electrical current when it overloads the circuit.

Fuses and circuit breakers are safety devices built into your electrical system. If there were no fuses or circuit breakers and you operated too many appliances on a single circuit, the cable carrying the power for that circuit would get extremely hot, short circuit, and possibly start a fire. To prevent electrical overloads, circuit breakers and fuses are designed to trip or blow, stopping the flow of current to the overloaded cable. For example, a 15-ampere circuit breaker should trip when the current through it exceeds 15 amperes. A 20-ampere fuse should blow when the current through it exceeds 20 amps. A fuse that blows or a circuit breaker that trips is not faulty; it is doing its job properly, indicating that there is trouble somewhere in the circuit. A blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker usually means there are too many appliances plugged in to that circuit or some malfunctioning device, like an appliance with an internal short, is connected to the circuit. Locate and eliminate the cause of the trouble before replacing a blown fuse or resetting a tripped circuit breaker.Caution: Never try to defeat this built-in safety system by replacing a fuse with one of a higher current-carrying capacity. The fuse or circuit breaker capacity should be equal to or less than the current-carrying capacity of the conductors. For example, don't replace a 15-ampere fuse with a 25-ampere fuse. Replace fuses and breakers only with ones of the same size and amperage.Circuit breakers do not blow like fuses; they are switches that automatically trip open to interrupt the flow of electrical current when it overloads the circuit. To reset a tripped breaker, turn it fully off and then back on.Branch and Feeder CircuitsCircuits to all the devices in your home that require electrical power start from the fuses or circuit breakers. There are two types of circuits: feeder and branch. Feeder circuits use thicker cables that travel from the main entrance panel to smaller distribution panels called subpanels, or load centers. These auxiliary panels are located in remote parts of a house or in outbuildings, and they are used for redistribution of power, such as in a garage. Feeder circuits aren't found in all houses.All of the circuits in a home that run from either the main entrance panel or from other smaller panels to the various points of use are branch circuits. For 110-120-volt needs, a circuit branches out through a circuit breaker from one of the main buses and from the ground bus. For 220-240 volts, many circuits use only the two main buses. But all three wires are needed for devices that operate on both 110-120 volts and 220-240 volts.

SAFTY TIPS FOR ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS

Electrical Safety Indoors
Child SafetyPut safety covers on all electrical outlets that are within their reach. Keep appliances and cords up and out of the way.

Outlets–Don’t overload them!Avoid overloading a receptacle or an electrical circuit. It invites trouble; fires can occur when overloaded wires become hot.

Electrical Fires Keep flammable objects away from heaters or light bulbs. Install smoke detectors, keep a fire extinguisher on hand and have a family fire escape plan.

Look Out For Low – Voltage ShockIn the bathroom. Never touch electrical equipment while in the tub. Keep all electrical appliances far enough away from water in tubs, showers and sinks so you cannot touch them, and they can’t fall in and discharge electricity through the water – and you. Receptacles in bathrooms also should have a ground fault circuit interrupter.

In the kitchenAlways unplug an appliance before cleaning it. Even if turned off, it can shock you. Use outlets with GFCI's for appliances near sinks.

Ground Fault Circuit InterruptersGround Fault Circuit Interrupters shout off power in time to prevent serious shock. Use them in bathrooms, garages, near kitchen sinks, and outdoors.

Appliance Cords – Frayed cords are Dangerous!Cord insulation keeps electricity in the wires, where it belongs. Check appliance power cords and connections for wear; don’t use frayed or cracked cords.

Electrical Safety – Outdoors
Tree Safety – Work & play safely around trees!Climbing trees, poles, or steel towers can result in accidental contact with power lines, causing serious injury or death.Do not attempt to remove tree limbs from power lines. Don’t do it. Instead, call your power distributor.

Kites and Model planes – Fly them Away from Power Lines!Fly model planes and kites in open fields well away from power lines. Don’t try to retrieve a kite or plane entangled in the wires.

Overhead Power Lines – Keep your Distance!Never install a TV or radio antenna within falling distance of a power line. Before you move a metal ladder or scaffolding, check to see that it is clear of power lines. Look up and live. Never up-end any kind of pipe near a power line. Carry it level and keep your eye on power lines when removing water pipes and well casings. Equipment with booms – cranes, draglines, and trucks – should never violate the ten-foot rule when working around power lines. If the boom touches a power line, the person standing on the ground and touching any part of the equipment will be injured or killed. Never touch, kick, pull, or attempt to pick up a fallen wire. Even a telephone wire could be deadly if tangled with a power line some distance away. Notify your electric distributor and stand guard, keeping others away until help arrives.

If you hit a Power Pole –If your car comes in contact with a power line for any reason, try your best to break away. If the car won’t move, stay inside and wait for help to arrive. However, if you are forced to abandon the car, first scan the ground for fallen wires, then jump clear. Never touch the car and the ground at the same time. Bystanders should stay clear of the car. If they touch the car they could be injured or killed.Underground Power Lines – Call Before You Dig!Call your local electric distributor to locate underground utilities before digging. If you hit an underground power line you could be seriously or fatally injured. To help maintain the reliability of your electric power, don’t plant trees near power lines. A tree that’s tiny today will be big one day. Plant wisely so that you can enjoy your trees for many years to come.

Plumbing, Heating, Air Conditioning and Ventilating

The plumbing, heating, air conditioning and ventilation systems are what make your home a habitable place to live. The articles below will help you keep your drains unclogged, your septic system working, your heat and air running efficiently, and the air ducts in your ventilation system clean and free of leaks.

Electrical and Electronics

Electrical home wiring is no easy task. But, with help from our electrical and electronic articles, you can easily master installing light fixtures, adding an electrical outlet, updating switches, connecting home theater wires, repairing household appliances, and operating household electronics. We make home electronics and wiring projects easy!

Electrical Tip Before Starting Work

Probably the most mysterious and scariest home projects involve electrical work. Those people not familiar with electricity might expect lightning to come shooting out of sockets and switches when you want to work on them. That won't happen...unless, of course, you start working around the wiring when the power is still flowing.

Play it safe and get an inexpensive circuit alert voltage tester that lets you know if it's okay to go to work. Just place the tester on the wiring (or device and if it lights up the wire is live. This lets you know if you've turned off the wrong circuit breaker or fuse, or if there's a problem with the breaker. Fix it before you do anything else!

Tips

On many occasions, I have been able to drop a string alongside the pipe. My best results happen when I tie a 16d common nail to the string and this acts as a weighted pointer to guide the string on its way down the chase. It helps tremendously if a person is below shining a flashlight up into the cavity. The little bit of light allows me to see the best route to follow. Once the string makes it to the basement or lower level you can pull a wire up or down through the space.
Installing the rough-in wiring for recessed light fixtures can give you a huge neck ache if you do it the way most people do. They nail up the rough-in fixture and stand on a ladder to attach the wires. The electrician I used on my jobs taught me a cool trick. Wire the fixture on the ground! Once it is complete, then lift the fixture up and nail it in place. All you have to do is figure out the length of the wire feeding the light. You can actually work backwards. Wire the light first then drop the wire to the switch or next fixture.
Wall outlet heights and locations are critical in my opinion. Many electricians choose to put boxes just 12 inches off the floor. I feel that is too low. I place mine 16 inches off the floor. What's more, I always pre-plan furniture locations. I want outlets immediately behind side tables next to couches. Why put an outlet behind a couch? I want outlets to be exactly where the fixtures or lamps will be so you don't see cords stretching to reach an outlet.
Outdoor holiday lighting outlets are very important. Plan for where you think outdoor lights will be used. Install numerous outlets that are controlled by an interior switch next to your front door and possibly a 3 way switch in your bedroom in case you forget to turn the lights out before you jump in bed!

Top Tips

Perhaps the biggest tip I can offer is to plan for plenty of circuits. The cost of a 40 circuit panel vs. a 30 circuit panel is peanuts. Two hundred fifty feet of 12 / 2 cable with ground is peanuts. Anticipate what the load for a circuit might be and if in doubt, simply add another circuit to a room addition or house. Heck, add two more! Consider using 12/2 wire as your minimum wire size. I did that in my own home after years of frustration working at other people's homes. I could notice a voltage drop at some houses when I used my power tools. I quickly learned that I was at the end of a long stretch of 14 gauge wire. Fourteen gauge wire supports 15 amps or 1,800 watts. But 12 gauge wire is rated for 20 amps or 2,400 watts. That is a significant difference. Plan for big tools in your garage or workshop. If you have a table saw, it should have its own circuit. Those motors can draw lots of juice on startup and when a thick board is being cut with a semi-dull blade! Get the right tools. When working with residential electric, I use a linesman's pliers, a razor knife, a wire stripping tool and several different screwdrivers. I also have a needle nose pliers. The linesman's pliers are great for cutting cable and twisting wires together. The razor knife strips insulation from the cable and the wire stripping tool strips wire insulation in one stroke. The needle nose pliers is used to bend individual wires around outlet and switch terminal screws. Install wiring after the plumbing and heating is done but before low voltage wiring is run. Never have wiring in the way before a plumber arrives. The heat from soldering torches has melted the insulation on many a cable or wire, trust me! Adding wiring in older homes can be a challenge. It can be especially difficult to get wires from one floor to the next. Older homes that have cast iron drain lines sometimes offer a convenient pathway. It was not uncommon for the plumbers to create oversize holes in the floors and wall plates to accommodate their pipes as they traveled from the different floors to the roof.

Electrical Tips

Related Articles:
When I think back on how I acquired most of my knowledge about electricity, I have to laugh. I did get some expert instruction from a wise older electrical engineer who happened to know many aspects of the National Electric Code by heart. He helped me re-wire the first house I owned. My brain was so receptive to getting this information that I absorbed everything he showed me. For example, once he showed me how to wire two 3 way switches that worked independently to power a stairwell light fixture, I instantly understood.

Getting Bitten
As I took on other jobs, I started to read books on the subject and do trial and error experiments. Back 25 years ago, I didn't have the respect I currently have for electricity. Luckily, I am still alive and my work has never caused a fire. But there have been some close calls!

I'll never forget one particular instance. If you wire an electrical panel, you quickly learn that the bare ground wires and the white neutral wires can be connected to the same bar inside the panel in certain instances. So I assumed that since you can always safely touch the bare ground wire with no fear of getting zotted that one could do the same with the white neutral wires.

One day, I was up on a step ladder with my head sticking through a suspended ceiling. I was involved in a remodeling project in a light commercial building. I needed to splice a cable into an existing circuit. To do so, I needed to connect my white neutral wire to several that were in the box. I removed the wire nut and for some reason grabbed onto them. The next thing I remember was lying flat on my back on the floor. I got shocked BIG TIME. Why? Simple! The circuit was in use and energized. The neutral wires are part of a live circuit and my body had simply become sort of an extra light bulb in the circuit. Actually, I had become a convenient path to ground.