Introduction
A load miser switch is an automatic switching device that allows you to connect two large appliances such as a hot water tank and stove and prioritize one appliance due to an electrical panel or service entrance being underrated for a particular dwelling.
How Traditional Load Misers work
There are two types of loads in a miser switch, preferred and non preferred. When the loads reach 80 percent of the fuse rating of the device the non preferred load will shut off allowing the preferred appliance to operate. When the preferred load is below 80 percent or turned off, the load miser switch will allow power to go to the non preferred load.
Do they still exist?
Load miser switches have been fazed out over the years but there's still a demand for them. The electrical authorities don't want people to use them anymore, and this would account for their being fazed out but they're not illegal as there are many installed all over the world. Some people still manage to get their hands on them because of some available stock here and there. The lack of load miser switches has forced people to upgrade services from 60 to 100 Amps or 100 to 200 Amps and it has generated a lot of revenue for power companies. Most people who have new homes or perform major renovations have a new 200 Amp service that can handle many appliances at the same time. There are still millions of 60 and 100 Amp service entrances out there and a new service upgrade can become costly these days. Many people would like to control just two large appliances in their home or garage automatically to avoid nuisance tripping of their mains to save on a complete service upgrade.
Necessity Is The Mother Of All Inventions
Many people have an AC unit, washer and dryer, stove, and many other appliances that make a 60 and even 100 Amp service entrances mains trip when more than one appliance is running. If you're border line in amperage you just need those appliances prioritized with a miser switch. Fortunately there's a load miser switch design that's even better than the traditional load miser switching system. With some readily available parts you could build this miser switch yourself. Not only can it supply power to two loads or more and prioritize one of them, it can also be put into the main lines of a service entrance after a main disconnect and control many appliances or loads at once.
How the New Load Miser Switch works
The stove always has power as it's the main load you want running in the miser switch. When you turn your stove on; it could be one element, fan, coffee pot connected to the outlet attached to it, the current sensing relays will detect and open the power relay feeding the dryer. When this happens, the dryers power is cut off. When the stove load is reduced to just under your preset level of 1-100 Amps, it will allow the power relay to close and the dryer will work at the same time as the stove.
Some of the benefits to this load miser switch are
-You can adjust the current sensors from 1-100 Amps, even independently. Most stoves have an outlet with maybe a coffee pot connected, lights or fan. If any draw is detected above your preset level it will stop the non preferred load or loads from working. -You can install this miser switch into the main lines, after a main 60 or 100 Amp disconnect, and control many appliances through prioritization. -It can control relays or contactors up to the rating of you service entrance. You're not limited to 40 Amps and two loads like with the old miser switches. -You can run individual sensor wires from appliances to have control over your power relays with a smaller relay.
Power Electric System: Michael Thellend is an inventor, licensed electrician, certified in electronic controls and he specializes in alternative power. He offers a website with free custom ongoing resources regarding electrical, alternative, generator, vehicle and emergency power. Please visit: www.powerelectricsystem.com www.powerhow.com
Thursday, February 26, 2009
Free Power Designs and Resources - How To Build a Load Miser Switch
Videocon Multie 6000
Load It
If you want your washing machine to be good looking and trendy then you should definitely go for Videocon Multie 6000. This machine from the house of Videocon comes in light and dark grey color which is very suitable. Let?s find more about this machine.
Key Features
With 3 different wash care programs Videocon Multie 6000 is one of the most sought after washing machines. With this machine, you don?t get the option of automatic bleach and detergent dispenser. You will have to put them manually with each wash. The washing machine comes with a pulsator wash method which gives your clothes a better wash.
Design
Videocon Multie 6000 is a very compact washing machine with the dimensions of 750 x 890 x 435 mm and it is one of the lightest washing machines with the weight of merely 22.5 kg. It will take very little space in your kitchen or anywhere you want to keep it. Being top loading it will create some problem if you place it just beneath a shelf. Its timer and other setting buttons are also on the top. Hence, it will prove very beneficial if you buy this product to check the status of the wash.
Compatibility
Videocon Multie 6000 has the capacity of 6 kg of dry cotton clothes in one wash. This gives you ample quantity. Now you do not need to worry about your dirty clothes, they will be sparkling after you put them in to this machine.
The machine works with the power supply of 240V single phase. This means you don?t need any extra electrical power to use this machine. The machine has the automated time duration. You can set the timer and leave the work on the machine.
Conclusion
Everything about Videocon Multie 6000 Washing Machine is perfect. It?s just that with this machine you will miss on the hot water wash option. But still the results are good for a semi-automatic washing machine.
If you want your washing machine to be good looking and trendy then you should definitely go for Videocon Multie 6000. This machine from the house of Videocon comes in light and dark grey color which is very suitable. Let?s find more about this machine.
Key Features
With 3 different wash care programs Videocon Multie 6000 is one of the most sought after washing machines. With this machine, you don?t get the option of automatic bleach and detergent dispenser. You will have to put them manually with each wash. The washing machine comes with a pulsator wash method which gives your clothes a better wash.
Design
Videocon Multie 6000 is a very compact washing machine with the dimensions of 750 x 890 x 435 mm and it is one of the lightest washing machines with the weight of merely 22.5 kg. It will take very little space in your kitchen or anywhere you want to keep it. Being top loading it will create some problem if you place it just beneath a shelf. Its timer and other setting buttons are also on the top. Hence, it will prove very beneficial if you buy this product to check the status of the wash.
Compatibility
Videocon Multie 6000 has the capacity of 6 kg of dry cotton clothes in one wash. This gives you ample quantity. Now you do not need to worry about your dirty clothes, they will be sparkling after you put them in to this machine.
The machine works with the power supply of 240V single phase. This means you don?t need any extra electrical power to use this machine. The machine has the automated time duration. You can set the timer and leave the work on the machine.
Conclusion
Everything about Videocon Multie 6000 Washing Machine is perfect. It?s just that with this machine you will miss on the hot water wash option. But still the results are good for a semi-automatic washing machine.
The solution is here - Headset Adapter for your telephone.
So, how does it work? Headset Adapter plug allows use of standard PBX/ACD headset with modular telephones. PBX headsets equipped with the standard PJ327 dual brass plug may now plug into telephone consoles with 4X4 jack.
Westek brings us another delightfully innovative headset adapter to extend the functionality and provide more stability and the same range (or greater) than the any other headset adapter. However, buying the latest product is always such a gamble, never mind the fact that it may become quickly obsolete, so first consider investing in a product that you genuinely need and that you can use for the long haul.
Westek Electronics Inc., is a leading provider of telecommunications cords, cable and test assemblies that introduce new Laptop Kit that allows technicians to quickly and easily interface with multiple types of test equipment while in the field or central office.
Westek brings us another delightfully innovative headset adapter to extend the functionality and provide more stability and the same range (or greater) than the any other headset adapter. However, buying the latest product is always such a gamble, never mind the fact that it may become quickly obsolete, so first consider investing in a product that you genuinely need and that you can use for the long haul.
Westek Electronics Inc., is a leading provider of telecommunications cords, cable and test assemblies that introduce new Laptop Kit that allows technicians to quickly and easily interface with multiple types of test equipment while in the field or central office.
Bring Home the Light!
focus lighting, halo lighting
Home interiors speak a lot about your taste and personality. You might be a great connoisseur of art but what is it that keeps visitors ignorant of your taste? Perhaps your failure to highlight your interest. You are not the only one who often falters when it comes to proper interior designing. Focusing on the right objects not only highlights your taste but also enhances the feel of your room. Halo or focus lighting systems is ideal to create the effect.
Let's begin with the living room; your own cozy hub for socializing with visitors. Choose the area which you want to focus and arrange the furniture accordingly. If you own a grand crafted statue, make it the cynosure of the room and set the furniture accordingly. Big living rooms can be well livened with statues, plants, a piano, flower vases etc. These can be focused using lights with soft hues. If you own a little art gallery or even some portraits, use halo lighting. These are placed just above the paintings at an angle that highlights the canvas.
Focus lighting can be placed above mirrors; however, the lighting should not be too harsh. Small sized halo lights are also placed above dressing table mirrors. Next comes kitchen lighting, which again demands proper planning. Kitchen lights should preferably be white with a little more intensity in comparison to the lights in your living room. Your cabinets should be well lit and the light should focus on the cooking center.
Last but not the least is your bathroom, your space of relaxation. Bathrooms do need adequate lighting as this is the place where you deck up, take out contacts, as well as chill out after a hectic day. Due to its varied uses, bathrooms require multiple lighting options where you can switch your lights from dim to harsh. When applying makeup, you need to have focus lighting above the mirror. Halo lighting serves the purpose as they do not drag the attention to the source but on the space you want to highlight.
There are hundreds of lighting options available, information of which you can always avail online. Browse through the catalogues to select the ones you like for your dream home. So bring the light home to spread its playful aura and weave a stylish ambience.
Wain Roy is an internet marketing professional expert in various industries like real estate, web design, finance, medical tourism and halo lighting.
Home interiors speak a lot about your taste and personality. You might be a great connoisseur of art but what is it that keeps visitors ignorant of your taste? Perhaps your failure to highlight your interest. You are not the only one who often falters when it comes to proper interior designing. Focusing on the right objects not only highlights your taste but also enhances the feel of your room. Halo or focus lighting systems is ideal to create the effect.
Let's begin with the living room; your own cozy hub for socializing with visitors. Choose the area which you want to focus and arrange the furniture accordingly. If you own a grand crafted statue, make it the cynosure of the room and set the furniture accordingly. Big living rooms can be well livened with statues, plants, a piano, flower vases etc. These can be focused using lights with soft hues. If you own a little art gallery or even some portraits, use halo lighting. These are placed just above the paintings at an angle that highlights the canvas.
Focus lighting can be placed above mirrors; however, the lighting should not be too harsh. Small sized halo lights are also placed above dressing table mirrors. Next comes kitchen lighting, which again demands proper planning. Kitchen lights should preferably be white with a little more intensity in comparison to the lights in your living room. Your cabinets should be well lit and the light should focus on the cooking center.
Last but not the least is your bathroom, your space of relaxation. Bathrooms do need adequate lighting as this is the place where you deck up, take out contacts, as well as chill out after a hectic day. Due to its varied uses, bathrooms require multiple lighting options where you can switch your lights from dim to harsh. When applying makeup, you need to have focus lighting above the mirror. Halo lighting serves the purpose as they do not drag the attention to the source but on the space you want to highlight.
There are hundreds of lighting options available, information of which you can always avail online. Browse through the catalogues to select the ones you like for your dream home. So bring the light home to spread its playful aura and weave a stylish ambience.
Wain Roy is an internet marketing professional expert in various industries like real estate, web design, finance, medical tourism and halo lighting.
How To Create Your Own Electricity Source?
The entire world is affected by the energy crisis, and more and more people are searching for a way to cut their electricity bills. Many people are trying to reduce their semi-dependence on what is call non-renewable sources of energy.
Some of them are ready to take the next step to solve their problems. They are ready to live off the grid.
What is this crisis all about?
To understand what is happening right now, you need to know that there are only two sources of energy.
1. Renewable
2. Non renewable
Renewable simply means that you can use this source of energy over and over, with other millions of people. This source of energy will always be there, and it's not going to disappear.
In the renewable energy category, you have three different sources: The energy that comes from the sun (known as solar energy). You also have the energy that comes from the wind (called wind power or wind energy), and finally, you have the energy that comes from the water (hydro power).
You see, if one of these three sources disappear, humans will probably follow. So they are here to stay. And what is good for you is that they are way cheaper than the non-renewable sources of energy.
As for the non-renewable, it is the opposite. They will eventually stop.
What is the most abundant renewable source of energy?
Good question. It's the sun. It is a great source for heat and light energy. Many women turn to the solar energy to cook and save money on power bill.
Why aren't you using the sun to produce your own electricity yet?
As for hydro and wind power, they also help to reduce your power bills, and like the sun, these two sources of energy are not going to stop.
Is Your Home Wasting Energy?
There are a few basics that every homeowner should pay attention to when it comes to energy conservation in the home: heating and cooling, windows, insulation, electrical systems, roofing, and doors. If you keep these systems in optimal condition, and update with newer, energy saving materials whenever possible, then you should be in good shape. If you haven't evaluated the state of these areas of your home, then you should perform an energy audit to figure out where you can improve the energy efficiency of your residence. Energy conservation is a responsibility we have to the environment, to each other, and to ourselves. That being the case, here are some of the most common solutions when it comes to energy conservation and home improvements.
Install Thermal Replacement Windows
If your old windows are drafty, installing thermal replacement windows is one of the best home improvement decisions you can make. It's an investment that will pay for itself in short order with the increased energy savings. And, not only will you be improving your home from an energy conservation standpoint, but your thermal replacement windows will look better, require less maintenance, and increase the resale value of your home as well.
Replace Incandescent Light Bulbs with Fluorescent Bulbs
While the florescent bulbs cost more up front, they last at least 10 times longer that the old bulbs and use far less energy to produce the same amount of light, drastically reducing your energy bills. Also, changing less bulbs means you don't have to keep shelling out money for replacement bulbs, either. Some used to complain about the light quality of fluorescent bulbs, but the new generation of fluorescent bulbs give off a pleasant, soft light, and special bulbs can be purchased for places where you have dimming switches installed. Taking all that into consideration, it's clear that replacing your incandescents with fluorescents is one of the easiest, and best, methods of energy conservation you can employ.
Check Home Insulation
Poor insulation, from your attic on down to your basement and crawl space, is a big source of energy loss for your home. Improving or adding insulation to any area that needs it is going to reap big benefits when it comes to reducing energy bills and upping energy savings.
Upgrade to Energy Efficient Appliances
Old appliances, from refrigerators and dishwashers, on up to furnaces and air conditioning units, use massive amounts of energy compared to newer, high tech models. You might consider a full appliance overhaul, if you've got the means, or you can just replace the old appliances with new, energy efficient models, as they wear out. Either way, these new appliances pay for themselves over time in energy savings. Look for appliances with the Energy Star label, since they are specifically manufactured with energy conservation in mind.
Consider an Energy Audit
It's one thing for you to evaluate your home yourself for ways to improve energy efficiency and another to hire a pro to come do the job for you. Investing in an energy audit is well worth the money, since the auditor will investigate your home top to bottom, then draw up a list of the most important, and effective, steps you can take towards creating a home where energy conservation is the rule, not the exception.
Computer Installation for Older Homes
Having a house that's been around for a while is desirable in many ways. History makes a home more interesting, and often the fixtures and craftsmanship are quite interesting and unique, especially when compared to home designs that are mass produced. One of the biggest issues with a vintage home, however, lies not in its body, but in its veins. Old plumbing, ductwork, and circuitry often need an upgrade to function in the modern world.
The Difficulties of Computer Installation
Computer installation is one job where the age of a house can really become a hindrance. The electricity in many older homes was meant to power only a few large appliances, with the rest of the circuitry devoted to lighting and other small operations. Computer installation, as well as home theater installation, often requires a significant number of outlets in addition to large amounts of electricity.
Since few, if any, vintage houses were designed with the high energy needs of the 21st century, many homeowners have turned to three-prong adapters, surge protecting power strips, and extension cords to make their computer installation happen. While these methods certainly provide a fix of sorts, the result is, at least, cumbersome and ugly, and at its worst, these types of solutions are a real fire hazard.
A Stitch in Time
One of the best things the owner of an older home can do is to replace two-pronged outlets with grounded outlets. This job is not particularly expensive, and it will save a lot of trouble in the future. Installing grounded outlets can be a daunting task for those without electrical experience, but if only a few need to be changed, it's worth the time to do some research on how the operation is properly done.
For houses where nearly all of the outlets are outdated, hiring a professional to do the work is probably the way to go. Not only will they be able to do the job quickly and safely, but they will be able to tell you how your home's wiring is holding up, too. Sometimes an old house might need to have some pretty extensive work done to bring it up to par. In rare cases, an old home might have aluminum wiring instead of the standard copper, which is far from optimal.
You may also wish to have additional outlets installed in certain areas or in certain rooms. Thinking back 15 years, it is hard to imagine the amount of plugs and wires it takes to plug in a TV now. In the future, it might require even more. Talking to an electrician about the current state of your wiring might bring forth some interesting and useful suggestions.
Cable Installation
Cable installation, like computer installation, wasn't even dreamed of when some classic houses were built. Thankfully, cable installation is almost exclusively done by the cable service you subscribe to. It could be beneficial, however, to have multiple rooms set up for cable before it is necessary. It will cost less to have many rooms wired at one time than it will to have a service provider make multiple trips, and you'll be able to use many devices in the future without having to wait for a scheduled appointment.
The Difficulties of Computer Installation
Computer installation is one job where the age of a house can really become a hindrance. The electricity in many older homes was meant to power only a few large appliances, with the rest of the circuitry devoted to lighting and other small operations. Computer installation, as well as home theater installation, often requires a significant number of outlets in addition to large amounts of electricity.
Since few, if any, vintage houses were designed with the high energy needs of the 21st century, many homeowners have turned to three-prong adapters, surge protecting power strips, and extension cords to make their computer installation happen. While these methods certainly provide a fix of sorts, the result is, at least, cumbersome and ugly, and at its worst, these types of solutions are a real fire hazard.
A Stitch in Time
One of the best things the owner of an older home can do is to replace two-pronged outlets with grounded outlets. This job is not particularly expensive, and it will save a lot of trouble in the future. Installing grounded outlets can be a daunting task for those without electrical experience, but if only a few need to be changed, it's worth the time to do some research on how the operation is properly done.
For houses where nearly all of the outlets are outdated, hiring a professional to do the work is probably the way to go. Not only will they be able to do the job quickly and safely, but they will be able to tell you how your home's wiring is holding up, too. Sometimes an old house might need to have some pretty extensive work done to bring it up to par. In rare cases, an old home might have aluminum wiring instead of the standard copper, which is far from optimal.
You may also wish to have additional outlets installed in certain areas or in certain rooms. Thinking back 15 years, it is hard to imagine the amount of plugs and wires it takes to plug in a TV now. In the future, it might require even more. Talking to an electrician about the current state of your wiring might bring forth some interesting and useful suggestions.
Cable Installation
Cable installation, like computer installation, wasn't even dreamed of when some classic houses were built. Thankfully, cable installation is almost exclusively done by the cable service you subscribe to. It could be beneficial, however, to have multiple rooms set up for cable before it is necessary. It will cost less to have many rooms wired at one time than it will to have a service provider make multiple trips, and you'll be able to use many devices in the future without having to wait for a scheduled appointment.
Electrical and Lighting Glossary
A-Line Lamp: An incandescent lamp generally used in most indoor residential homes.
Accent Lighting: Lighting used to accent or highlight a particular object and is four or five times the level of ambient light in an area.
Alternating Current (AC) : An electric current that changes direction with regular frequency.
Alternator: An electric generator that produces alternating current.
Ambient Lighting: Light that illuminates a space.
American Wire Gauge (AWG) : A standard measure representing the size of a wire (a larger number represents a smaller wire).
Ampacity: The current a conductor can carry continuously.
Ampere: A type of electric current that is produced by one volt applied across one ohm.
Analog: A unit of measure that utilizes varying physical restrictions.
Arc Tube: A tube enclosed by a glass made of clear quartz that contains an arc stream.
Ballast: An electrical device used with fluorescent lamps to supply sufficient voltage to operate the lamp but also then limits the current during operation.
Ballast Cycling: An adverse condition where the ballast turns a lamp on and off due to overheating.
Battery: Two or more cells connected together to provide electrical current.
Blower Doors: Devices used to see how much air leaks through windows, doors, and other places in a house.
Branch Circuit: Conductors that protect circuits and outlets.
Brownout: A reduction in power when the demand for electricity exceeds its generating ability.
BTU (British Thermal Unit) : The standard unit for measuring heat quantities.
Cable Lighting System: A low voltage lighting system where electricity is conducted through cables.
Candlepower/Candela: Unit of light intensity in a specific direction, measured in "Candelas."
Capacitor: A device that stores electrical charge.
Cathode: An electrode that emits electrons.
Cell: A device that converts chemical energy into electrical current in a battery.
Circuit Breaker: A device designed to open and close a circuit without causing damage to itself.
Circuit Extensions: Items used to extend or add on to an existing circuit to provide an additional power source.
Code Corrections: Procedures used to correct wiring that does not meet proper safety conditions.
Colored Glass Filter: Glass formed with the color in the glass as opposed being coated on the surface.
Color Temperature: A measure of the color appearance of a light source often described with terms such as "warm" (orange) or "cool" (white).
Compact Fluorescent Lamp (CFL) : A family of small fluorescent lamps made with a glass tube design and high color illumination.
Constant Wattage (CW) Ballast: A HID ballast where primary and secondary coils are isolated.
Continuous Load: A load whoýs maximum current is expected to continue for 3 hours or more.
Contrast: The relationship between the illumination of an object and its background.
Controller: A device that serves to regulate the electric power delivered to a connected apparatus.
Cornice Lighting: Light sources shielded by a panel parallel to the wall and attached to the ceiling.
Cove Lighting: Light sources shielded by a recess and distribute light over the ceiling.
Current: The flow of electricity measured in amperes.
Cut-off Angle: The angle where a light fixture or other shielding device cuts off direct visibility of the lamp itself.
Daylight Compensation: An energy-saving dimming system that reduces lamp output when in the presence of natural light.
Diffuse: Dispersed light distribution that softens illumination.
Dimmer: A device used to vary the brightness of lamps.
Diode: An electronic semiconductor device that allows a current to flow in just one direction.
Direct Current (DC) : Circuit allowing electrons to flow in only one direction.
Downlight: A light fixture recessed into the ceiling and illuminates in a downward direction.
Efficacy: A measure used to compare light output to energy consumption.
Electroluminescent: A light source technology that provides long lamp life while still consuming very little energy.
Electric Resistance Heating: A type of heating system that generates heat by passing current through a conductor, often used in baseboard heating systems.
EMI: Electromagnetic Interference: High frequency interference caused by electronic components that interfere with the operation of electrical equipment.
Emergency Lighting: Lighting for when normal lighting fails.
Energy: The ability to do mechanical work; it is measured in kilowatt-hours.
Energy Efficiency Ratio (EER) : The ratio of the cooling capacity of the air conditioner to the total electrical input in watts.
Energy-saving Ballast: A magnetic ballast designed to operate more efficiently than "standard magnetic" ballasts.
Fault: A short circuit in an electrical system.
Filament: A tungsten wire that lights when electric current runs through it.
Flexible Track Lighting System: A low-voltage lighting system where the track holding the light fixture is able to bend.
Fluorescent Lamps: Devices that produce light by passing electricity through a gas.
Foot-Candle: The amount of light reaching an object.
Four-Way Switch: A wall switch allowing three switches to control one lighting system.
Frequency: The rate at which a current changes direction.
Generator: A rotating machine that converts mechanical energy into electrical energy.
Glare: A condition caused by light coming directly into the eye from a light source.
Grid: An electrical distribution network.
Ground: A connection between an electrical circuit and the earth.
Halogen Lamp: An incandescent lamp that contains halogen gases which slow the evaporation of the tungsten filament.
Hard Wired: A light fixture permanently connected to an electrical source with a cord.
Hertz (Hz) : The unit of frequency.
HID Lamp: High Intensity Discharge lamps have a longer life and tend to provide more light than most light sources.
High Bay: A type of lighting where the ceiling is 20 feet or higher.
High Output (HO) : A lamp or ballast designed to operate at higher currents in order to produce more lumens.
High-Tech Troubleshooting: A procedure used to identify any electrical problems.
Horsepower: A unit of power equal to 746 watts.
Hot Restart/Hot Restrike: The automatic restarting of a HID light source after a momentary loss in power.
Illuminance (Light Level) : The light incident on a surface.
Impulse: A currentýs surge.
Incandescent Light Bulbs: Light bulbs that produce light by passing electricity through a thin filament.
Infrared Cameras: Cameras used to see any heat leaking out of a building.
Infrared Radiation: An invisible radiation where wavelengths are longer and lower than that of visible radiation.
Instant Start: Fluorescent lamps that start instantly without pre-heating their cathodes.
Insulation: Materials that have a high resistance to electrical currents.
Inverter: A device that converts direct current into alternating current.
Ion: A positively or negatively charged atom or molecule.
Joule: A unit of energy equal to one watt for one second.
Kilovolt (kV) : A unit of electrical potential equal to 1,000 volts.
Kilowatt (kW) : Real power delivered to a load.
Kilowatt-hour: A unit of energy equal to one kilowatt for one hour; the typical unit used to measure energy and for billing customers.
Layers: Layers of light in a given space that are created by several different kinds of lighting (a combination of task, general, ambient, and accent lighting systems, etc).
LED: Light Emitting Diode: a small, energy-efficient electronic light that has a very long life.
Light Loss Factor (LLF) : Factors that allow a lighting system to operate at less than initial conditions.
Light Trespass/Spill Light: Light emitted into an unintended area.
Life Cycle Cost: Total costs associated with purchasing and operating a system over its lifetime.
Limit Switch: A switch used to alter the electric circuit.
Liquid-Filled Transformer: A transformer immersed in a liquid that acts as both a cooling and insulating method.
Live Parts: Electric components that are uninsulated or exposed and are therefore hazardous.
Load: The amount of power supplied by an electrical device.
Loadbreak: Disconnecting a load without damage.
Load Center: The source for all power to a structure.
Load Curve: A way to plot the electronic demand versus time.
Load Factor: Measures how efficiently an electrical systemýs capacity is utilized.
Load Switching: Transferring a load from one source to another.
Louver: A screen made of opaque material to minimize glare from a light source.
Low Voltage: A wiring system that provides power to an electronic device operating on a voltage level lower than the standard 110 volts.
Lumen: A unit of measure used to describe the amount of light a lamp emits.
Luminaire: A light fixture.
Mercury Vapor Lamp: A HID lamp where light is produced by radiation from mercury vapor.
Metal Enclosed/Metalclad: A device that is surrounded by a metal casing.
Metal Halide: A HID lamp where the light is produced by radiation of metal halide and mercury vapors.
Motors: Electronic device used to move, switch, or adjust one or more of the systems within a dwelling.
National Electrical Code (NEC) : A guideline used for safeguarding people/property from electrical hazards.
Neodymium: A silvery metal used to make purple glass for incandescent light bulbs, eye protection goggles, laser rods, filters, and lenses.
Occupancy Sensor: Control device that turns lights off after a space becomes unoccupied.
Ohm: The unit used for measuring resistance.
Opaque: A material that does not transmit visible light.
Optics: The components of a light fixture; the light emitting performance of a fixture.
Outlet: Where a current is taken to supply something outside the wiring system.
Overload: The excess of normal capacity that could cause damage due to overheating.
Overvoltage: A voltage that is above the normal rated voltage for a circuit.
PAR Lamp: A parabolic aluminized reflector lamp.
Pendant: Lamps equipped with shades to avoid glare that are suspended from the ceiling.
Phase: Classification of an AC circuit.
Photocell: A light-sensing device that controls light fixtures and dimmers in response to detected light levels.
Power: The rate at which energy is transferred.
Power Outage: An interruption in power.
Power Outlet: An assembly intended to distribute power to temporary equipment.
Preheat: A ballast that uses a starter to heat up a fluorescent lamp before high voltage starts it.
Puncture: A disruptive discharge that occurs in a solid dielectric.
Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) : Interference to a radio frequency band caused by other high frequency equipment in the area.
Rapid Start: A fluorescent system that does not require starters and emits light very quickly.
Rated Life: The time at which half of a certain kind of lamp will burn out.
Reactive Power: The product of voltage and current consumed by reactive loads.
Real (Active) Power: The rate at which energy is transferred, often measured in watts or kilowatts.
Receptacles: Power sources in a structure that provide electricity.
Reflector/Refractor: The device on a light fixture that shrouds the lamp and redirects the light emitted from it.
Regulation: The ballastýs ability to hold a constant output despite fluctuations in voltage.
Relay: A device that switches a load on or off due to small changes in its current.
Resistor: Anything that limits a current's flow.
Retrofit: Upgrading a preexisting fixture by installing new parts.
Sconce: A light fixture attached to a wall.
Semi-specular: Light reflection characteristics of a material.
Service: Equipment used for delivering electric energy from a utility to a wiring system.
Series Gap: Internal gap(s) where voltage is supposed to appear.
Series/Multiple: The winding of two coils that are connected for series/multiple operation.
Service Cable: Conductors transferred by cables.
Spacing Criterion: The maximum distance that interior fixtures may be spaced to ensure uniform illumination.
Specular: A mirrored or polished surface.
Starter: An electrical device used to start a fluorescent lamp.
Stroboscopic Effect: When rotating machinery appears to be standing still due to the alternating current supplied to multiple light sources.
Switchboard: A large assembly of panels mounted with protective devices.
Switches: Circuit interruption devices that control the flow of electricity in the home.
Symmetric: The normal flow of current.
Systems Capacity: A system that has met a customer's need.
Tap: A connection made from outside the wiring system.
Tandem Wiring: An option where a ballast is shared by two or more luminaries, thereby increasing efficiency.
Task Lighting: Lighting that is specifically installed to illuminate an area where tasks are performed.
Three-Way Switch: A wall switch allowing two switches to control one lighting system.
Track and Accent Lighting: A lighting system that provides variable degrees of light in multiple directions.
Transfer Switch: An electronic device that can disconnect from one power source in order to connect to another.
Transformer: A device wherein electromagnetic induction transfers electrical energy from one circuit to another.
Transient: A high amplitude, short duration pulse overlaid onto the normal voltage.
Translucent: A material through which some light is transmitted but causes some distortion.
Transparent: A material that transmits visible light with very little distortion.
Troffer: A recessed light fixture that uses fluorescent lamps and is installed flush with the ceiling.
Turn Ratio: The number of turns in a high voltage winding in relation to that of a low voltage winding.
UL: Underwriters Laboratories, Inc: a not-for-profit safety organization.
Uninterruptible Power Supply: A device that provides a constant output in spite of interruption.
Uplight: Light directed from a light fixture at or above 90 degrees.
UV Radiation: Light that is invisible to the eye.
Vandal-resistant: Fixtures with break-resistant shielding and tamper-proof screws.
Vapor-Tight Luminaire: A light fixture that doesnýt allow water vapor or gas to enter its enclosure.
VCP: Visual Comfort Probability: a rating system for evaluating direct glare.
Very High Output (VHO) : A fluorescent lamp operating at a very high current and therefore creating more light than a standard lamp.
Volt: An electrical flow that carries a current of one ampere.
Voltage Drop: The loss of voltage due to electrical resistance of a wire and its light fixture.
Wall Grazing: Dramatic light and shadow effects on a surface.
Wall Washing: A special lighting method that produces an even level of light on a wall in order to reduce the surfaceýs texture.
Watt: A unit of power equal to one ampere.
Wiring: A distribution network conducting electricity throughout a building.
Whole-House Fan: A fan used to ventilate an entire building.
Accent Lighting: Lighting used to accent or highlight a particular object and is four or five times the level of ambient light in an area.
Alternating Current (AC) : An electric current that changes direction with regular frequency.
Alternator: An electric generator that produces alternating current.
Ambient Lighting: Light that illuminates a space.
American Wire Gauge (AWG) : A standard measure representing the size of a wire (a larger number represents a smaller wire).
Ampacity: The current a conductor can carry continuously.
Ampere: A type of electric current that is produced by one volt applied across one ohm.
Analog: A unit of measure that utilizes varying physical restrictions.
Arc Tube: A tube enclosed by a glass made of clear quartz that contains an arc stream.
Ballast: An electrical device used with fluorescent lamps to supply sufficient voltage to operate the lamp but also then limits the current during operation.
Ballast Cycling: An adverse condition where the ballast turns a lamp on and off due to overheating.
Battery: Two or more cells connected together to provide electrical current.
Blower Doors: Devices used to see how much air leaks through windows, doors, and other places in a house.
Branch Circuit: Conductors that protect circuits and outlets.
Brownout: A reduction in power when the demand for electricity exceeds its generating ability.
BTU (British Thermal Unit) : The standard unit for measuring heat quantities.
Cable Lighting System: A low voltage lighting system where electricity is conducted through cables.
Candlepower/Candela: Unit of light intensity in a specific direction, measured in "Candelas."
Capacitor: A device that stores electrical charge.
Cathode: An electrode that emits electrons.
Cell: A device that converts chemical energy into electrical current in a battery.
Circuit Breaker: A device designed to open and close a circuit without causing damage to itself.
Circuit Extensions: Items used to extend or add on to an existing circuit to provide an additional power source.
Code Corrections: Procedures used to correct wiring that does not meet proper safety conditions.
Colored Glass Filter: Glass formed with the color in the glass as opposed being coated on the surface.
Color Temperature: A measure of the color appearance of a light source often described with terms such as "warm" (orange) or "cool" (white).
Compact Fluorescent Lamp (CFL) : A family of small fluorescent lamps made with a glass tube design and high color illumination.
Constant Wattage (CW) Ballast: A HID ballast where primary and secondary coils are isolated.
Continuous Load: A load whoýs maximum current is expected to continue for 3 hours or more.
Contrast: The relationship between the illumination of an object and its background.
Controller: A device that serves to regulate the electric power delivered to a connected apparatus.
Cornice Lighting: Light sources shielded by a panel parallel to the wall and attached to the ceiling.
Cove Lighting: Light sources shielded by a recess and distribute light over the ceiling.
Current: The flow of electricity measured in amperes.
Cut-off Angle: The angle where a light fixture or other shielding device cuts off direct visibility of the lamp itself.
Daylight Compensation: An energy-saving dimming system that reduces lamp output when in the presence of natural light.
Diffuse: Dispersed light distribution that softens illumination.
Dimmer: A device used to vary the brightness of lamps.
Diode: An electronic semiconductor device that allows a current to flow in just one direction.
Direct Current (DC) : Circuit allowing electrons to flow in only one direction.
Downlight: A light fixture recessed into the ceiling and illuminates in a downward direction.
Efficacy: A measure used to compare light output to energy consumption.
Electroluminescent: A light source technology that provides long lamp life while still consuming very little energy.
Electric Resistance Heating: A type of heating system that generates heat by passing current through a conductor, often used in baseboard heating systems.
EMI: Electromagnetic Interference: High frequency interference caused by electronic components that interfere with the operation of electrical equipment.
Emergency Lighting: Lighting for when normal lighting fails.
Energy: The ability to do mechanical work; it is measured in kilowatt-hours.
Energy Efficiency Ratio (EER) : The ratio of the cooling capacity of the air conditioner to the total electrical input in watts.
Energy-saving Ballast: A magnetic ballast designed to operate more efficiently than "standard magnetic" ballasts.
Fault: A short circuit in an electrical system.
Filament: A tungsten wire that lights when electric current runs through it.
Flexible Track Lighting System: A low-voltage lighting system where the track holding the light fixture is able to bend.
Fluorescent Lamps: Devices that produce light by passing electricity through a gas.
Foot-Candle: The amount of light reaching an object.
Four-Way Switch: A wall switch allowing three switches to control one lighting system.
Frequency: The rate at which a current changes direction.
Generator: A rotating machine that converts mechanical energy into electrical energy.
Glare: A condition caused by light coming directly into the eye from a light source.
Grid: An electrical distribution network.
Ground: A connection between an electrical circuit and the earth.
Halogen Lamp: An incandescent lamp that contains halogen gases which slow the evaporation of the tungsten filament.
Hard Wired: A light fixture permanently connected to an electrical source with a cord.
Hertz (Hz) : The unit of frequency.
HID Lamp: High Intensity Discharge lamps have a longer life and tend to provide more light than most light sources.
High Bay: A type of lighting where the ceiling is 20 feet or higher.
High Output (HO) : A lamp or ballast designed to operate at higher currents in order to produce more lumens.
High-Tech Troubleshooting: A procedure used to identify any electrical problems.
Horsepower: A unit of power equal to 746 watts.
Hot Restart/Hot Restrike: The automatic restarting of a HID light source after a momentary loss in power.
Illuminance (Light Level) : The light incident on a surface.
Impulse: A currentýs surge.
Incandescent Light Bulbs: Light bulbs that produce light by passing electricity through a thin filament.
Infrared Cameras: Cameras used to see any heat leaking out of a building.
Infrared Radiation: An invisible radiation where wavelengths are longer and lower than that of visible radiation.
Instant Start: Fluorescent lamps that start instantly without pre-heating their cathodes.
Insulation: Materials that have a high resistance to electrical currents.
Inverter: A device that converts direct current into alternating current.
Ion: A positively or negatively charged atom or molecule.
Joule: A unit of energy equal to one watt for one second.
Kilovolt (kV) : A unit of electrical potential equal to 1,000 volts.
Kilowatt (kW) : Real power delivered to a load.
Kilowatt-hour: A unit of energy equal to one kilowatt for one hour; the typical unit used to measure energy and for billing customers.
Layers: Layers of light in a given space that are created by several different kinds of lighting (a combination of task, general, ambient, and accent lighting systems, etc).
LED: Light Emitting Diode: a small, energy-efficient electronic light that has a very long life.
Light Loss Factor (LLF) : Factors that allow a lighting system to operate at less than initial conditions.
Light Trespass/Spill Light: Light emitted into an unintended area.
Life Cycle Cost: Total costs associated with purchasing and operating a system over its lifetime.
Limit Switch: A switch used to alter the electric circuit.
Liquid-Filled Transformer: A transformer immersed in a liquid that acts as both a cooling and insulating method.
Live Parts: Electric components that are uninsulated or exposed and are therefore hazardous.
Load: The amount of power supplied by an electrical device.
Loadbreak: Disconnecting a load without damage.
Load Center: The source for all power to a structure.
Load Curve: A way to plot the electronic demand versus time.
Load Factor: Measures how efficiently an electrical systemýs capacity is utilized.
Load Switching: Transferring a load from one source to another.
Louver: A screen made of opaque material to minimize glare from a light source.
Low Voltage: A wiring system that provides power to an electronic device operating on a voltage level lower than the standard 110 volts.
Lumen: A unit of measure used to describe the amount of light a lamp emits.
Luminaire: A light fixture.
Mercury Vapor Lamp: A HID lamp where light is produced by radiation from mercury vapor.
Metal Enclosed/Metalclad: A device that is surrounded by a metal casing.
Metal Halide: A HID lamp where the light is produced by radiation of metal halide and mercury vapors.
Motors: Electronic device used to move, switch, or adjust one or more of the systems within a dwelling.
National Electrical Code (NEC) : A guideline used for safeguarding people/property from electrical hazards.
Neodymium: A silvery metal used to make purple glass for incandescent light bulbs, eye protection goggles, laser rods, filters, and lenses.
Occupancy Sensor: Control device that turns lights off after a space becomes unoccupied.
Ohm: The unit used for measuring resistance.
Opaque: A material that does not transmit visible light.
Optics: The components of a light fixture; the light emitting performance of a fixture.
Outlet: Where a current is taken to supply something outside the wiring system.
Overload: The excess of normal capacity that could cause damage due to overheating.
Overvoltage: A voltage that is above the normal rated voltage for a circuit.
PAR Lamp: A parabolic aluminized reflector lamp.
Pendant: Lamps equipped with shades to avoid glare that are suspended from the ceiling.
Phase: Classification of an AC circuit.
Photocell: A light-sensing device that controls light fixtures and dimmers in response to detected light levels.
Power: The rate at which energy is transferred.
Power Outage: An interruption in power.
Power Outlet: An assembly intended to distribute power to temporary equipment.
Preheat: A ballast that uses a starter to heat up a fluorescent lamp before high voltage starts it.
Puncture: A disruptive discharge that occurs in a solid dielectric.
Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) : Interference to a radio frequency band caused by other high frequency equipment in the area.
Rapid Start: A fluorescent system that does not require starters and emits light very quickly.
Rated Life: The time at which half of a certain kind of lamp will burn out.
Reactive Power: The product of voltage and current consumed by reactive loads.
Real (Active) Power: The rate at which energy is transferred, often measured in watts or kilowatts.
Receptacles: Power sources in a structure that provide electricity.
Reflector/Refractor: The device on a light fixture that shrouds the lamp and redirects the light emitted from it.
Regulation: The ballastýs ability to hold a constant output despite fluctuations in voltage.
Relay: A device that switches a load on or off due to small changes in its current.
Resistor: Anything that limits a current's flow.
Retrofit: Upgrading a preexisting fixture by installing new parts.
Sconce: A light fixture attached to a wall.
Semi-specular: Light reflection characteristics of a material.
Service: Equipment used for delivering electric energy from a utility to a wiring system.
Series Gap: Internal gap(s) where voltage is supposed to appear.
Series/Multiple: The winding of two coils that are connected for series/multiple operation.
Service Cable: Conductors transferred by cables.
Spacing Criterion: The maximum distance that interior fixtures may be spaced to ensure uniform illumination.
Specular: A mirrored or polished surface.
Starter: An electrical device used to start a fluorescent lamp.
Stroboscopic Effect: When rotating machinery appears to be standing still due to the alternating current supplied to multiple light sources.
Switchboard: A large assembly of panels mounted with protective devices.
Switches: Circuit interruption devices that control the flow of electricity in the home.
Symmetric: The normal flow of current.
Systems Capacity: A system that has met a customer's need.
Tap: A connection made from outside the wiring system.
Tandem Wiring: An option where a ballast is shared by two or more luminaries, thereby increasing efficiency.
Task Lighting: Lighting that is specifically installed to illuminate an area where tasks are performed.
Three-Way Switch: A wall switch allowing two switches to control one lighting system.
Track and Accent Lighting: A lighting system that provides variable degrees of light in multiple directions.
Transfer Switch: An electronic device that can disconnect from one power source in order to connect to another.
Transformer: A device wherein electromagnetic induction transfers electrical energy from one circuit to another.
Transient: A high amplitude, short duration pulse overlaid onto the normal voltage.
Translucent: A material through which some light is transmitted but causes some distortion.
Transparent: A material that transmits visible light with very little distortion.
Troffer: A recessed light fixture that uses fluorescent lamps and is installed flush with the ceiling.
Turn Ratio: The number of turns in a high voltage winding in relation to that of a low voltage winding.
UL: Underwriters Laboratories, Inc: a not-for-profit safety organization.
Uninterruptible Power Supply: A device that provides a constant output in spite of interruption.
Uplight: Light directed from a light fixture at or above 90 degrees.
UV Radiation: Light that is invisible to the eye.
Vandal-resistant: Fixtures with break-resistant shielding and tamper-proof screws.
Vapor-Tight Luminaire: A light fixture that doesnýt allow water vapor or gas to enter its enclosure.
VCP: Visual Comfort Probability: a rating system for evaluating direct glare.
Very High Output (VHO) : A fluorescent lamp operating at a very high current and therefore creating more light than a standard lamp.
Volt: An electrical flow that carries a current of one ampere.
Voltage Drop: The loss of voltage due to electrical resistance of a wire and its light fixture.
Wall Grazing: Dramatic light and shadow effects on a surface.
Wall Washing: A special lighting method that produces an even level of light on a wall in order to reduce the surfaceýs texture.
Watt: A unit of power equal to one ampere.
Wiring: A distribution network conducting electricity throughout a building.
Whole-House Fan: A fan used to ventilate an entire building.
Electrical Safety Tips and Hazards
Each year hundreds of people die and thousands more are injured in accidents involving electrical fires or shocks. Most of these incidents can be prevented by following simple electrical-safety rules.
Do not attempt to adjust, test or make a repair if you do not have the basic repair skills or if you do not fully understand the directions provided in this web site. Furthermore, if your appliance, device, project, object of repair or its components differ from those described, you should not attempt the repair based upon the provided instructions. If the manufacturer's instructions differ from ours, always follow the manufacturer's instructions. Always wear eye protection and protective clothing or gear, as directed by a service manual or an install guide.
*Electric Shock can cause Injury or DEATH:
NEVER ASSUME the electricity is off. Before servicing an electrical device, disconnect it from its electrical source either by unplugging the appliance or turning off the power at the breaker or fuse box. Mark the service panel with a note so that no one will restore power while you are working. After turning off the power to the circuit, test the circuit to be certain that there is no power. Some devices can store a hazardous electrical charge even when disconnected from an electrical source, always discharge these devices before attempting service. If you are unfamiliar with a device or its components, consult with a professional before attempting service.
When working with electrical equipment wear rubber-soled shoes, avoid damp locations and hold all tools by their insulated handles. Never touch conductive surfaces such as pipes or metal bracing. Use a non-conductive fiberglass ladder when working with electricity. Avoid shorting electrical circuits.
Fuses and Circuit Breakers
*
If a fuse blows or a circuit breaker is tripped, don't just replace or reset it. Find out what caused the circuit to overload and correct the problem.
*
Never replace a fuse or circuit breaker with one that exceeds the amperage rating for a given circuit.
*
Avoid using several high-amperage appliances - such as irons or other heat-producing appliances - on the same circuit.
*
Never replace a fuse with a penny or any other material that conducts electricity.
Electrical Outlets
*
Have a professional electrician replace old or damaged outlets with modern, three-wired, polarized receptacles. Proper grounding is essential to minimize fire and shock hazards.
*
Plugs should match outlets. Three-pronged plugs require three-wired receptacles or a properly grounded adapter. Polarized plugs (now standard), with one prong wider than the other, require polarized receptacles.
*
Never cut off or bend the ground pin of a three-pronged plug. This ground connection protects you from severe shock caused by a faulty cord or malfunctioning appliance.
*
Never alter the wide prong of a polarized plug to make it fit into an outdated outlet. Have the outlet replaced and properly grounded.
*
Protect children from electrical shock by installing plastic safety inserts in unused outlets.
Appliances
* All household appliances should bear the label of an independent testing laboratory, indicating that they meet basic safety standards.
* Keep heat-producing appliances, such as electric space heaters, electric ranges, and irons at least three feet (one meter) away from furniture, curtains, bedding, or anything that will burn.
* Allow plenty of air space around televisions, computers, and stereos to prevent overheating.
* Keep electrical cords away from heat-producing appliances, such as toasters and coffee makers.
* Be sure that detachable appliance cords, such as those used with coffee makers, deep-fat fryers, and popcorn poppers are rated for the electrical-load requirements of the appliance.
Electrical Cords
* Keep electrical cords out of traffic paths and away from areas where children play.
* Maintain all electrical cords. Replace any cord that is cracked, frayed, or otherwise damaged.
* Never pinch an electrical cord against walls or furniture.
* Do not run extension cords under carpets or across doorways.
Outdoor Power
* Use only weatherproof fixtures and GFCI outlets with weatherproof covers for outdoor installations.
* Never run outdoor extension cords across lawns for seasonal lighting displays or run any extension cord across driveways or traffic areas.
* Never use electrical appliances outdoors in wet weather or when the ground or grass is wet, unless the appliance is specifically designed and labeled by an independent testing lab for such use.
* Appliances used outdoors should be plugged into receptacles protected by ground fault circuit interrupters
Lighting
* Place lamps on level, uncluttered surfaces and be sure that lampshades are secure enough to protect the bulb from breaking if the lamp is knocked over.
* Light bulbs should not exceed the wattage recommended for a lamp or fixture.
Power Lines
* Report downed power lines and mark the area to warn others.
* Never go near or touch a power line. Doing so can result in a fatal shock or severe injury.
* Keep ladders, especially metal ones, away from power lines. This includes overhead electrical service to your home.
Warning Signs
You can spot many electrical problems before they cause a fire or shock. Be alert to the following danger signs:
* Recurring problems with blowing fuses or tripping circuit breakers.
* Feeling a tingle when you touch an electrical seasonal light.
* Discoloration of wall outlets.
* A burning smell or unusual odor coming from an appliance or wiring.
* Sizzling sound at wall switches or outlets.
* Flickering lights.
If you cannot locate a problem inside your home, call your power company or an electrician immediately to inspect the electrical connection to your home at your electric meter. (Outdoor meters are extremely vulnerable to weather damage.)
When you spot a warning sign, don't wait for an accident. Take action at once. Unplug a malfunctioning appliance if you can do so safely. If necessary, cut off the power to a problem circuit by disconnecting the fuse or tripping the circuit breaker manually.
Do it yourself projects can be fun, but they can also be hazardous. When you work around electricity you must be careful, being shocked can cause injury or even death. Please read through our electrical safety tips and hazards to get a good idea of what to do or not to do. If you have an electric problem or emergency and would like to speak to a qualified electrician now, feel free to call us 24 hours a day 7 days a week - 1-800-656-3569.
Latest Electrical Information:
# How to Hire an Electrician
Want to know what to look for in an electrician? As a homeowner, you’re responsible for all home electrical repairs. It is your responsibility that you protect yourself and those who live with you. The following electrician checklist should help provide you with valuable information about how to hire an electrician.
# Energy Efficiency Lighting
Lighting accounts for 20% to 25% of all electricity consumed in the United States. An average household dedicates 5% to 10% of its energy budget to lighting, while commercial establishments consume 20% to 30% of their total energy just for lighting.
In a typical residential or commercial lighting installation, 50% or more of the energy efficiency is wasted by obsolete equipment, inadequate maintenance, or inefficient use. Learn how you can accomplish energy efficiency lighting.
# San Diego Electricians
Our San Diego electricians install, test, and maintain electrical systems.
In the past electricians chose to work either in construction or maintenance. Today many work in both. In general, construction electricians assemble and install electrical systems. At 1-800-AnyTyme in San Diego, CA, most of our electricians are maintenance electricians that maintain and repair systems.
Maintenance electricians keep electrical systems and equipment in good working order. They inspect equipment and fix any problems that they find. They also check equipment for safety and warn managers when equipment is not safe. They may install new electrical equipment. When breakdowns occur, they work quickly to find the problem and make the repair. They use equipment such as oscilloscopes to diagnose problems. They may change items such as circuit breakers, fuses, electrical components, or wire. When working on complex electronic devices, they may consult engineers or industrial machinery repairers.
# Get Everything Done Quickly Using Your Basic Tools
No one wants to have their house equipment broken. But it might happen if your electricity goes off or your water system stops working properly due to a broken or improper installation. You then realize it will take a whole day to wait for your electricians or plumbers to come. So, what should you do?
Don’t wait until your family cried loud for light or water. You have to make a quick move. You must check the cause of the trouble, so once the electrician or the plumber came they will know the problem quickly. If you can fix it, that’s a bonus. But to do so, you have to own a set of basic tools in your place. Make sure you have the basic tools that mostly used by electricians and plumbers such as wire snippers, needle-nose pliers, screwdrivers, stripping tools, tubing cutters, and pliers.
Having basic tools in your house indeed will make your life easier. You can use it to fix not only electricity and water system but also everything broken in your house. The problem is finding a cheap price of tools. You realize collecting tools take some times and also expensive. Where can you find cheap price in a situation where oil price is outrages…oh my…
Don’t get upset yet, if you want to stock up your toolbox for a home improvement project you have to be diligent checking the Internet. There are a lot of reputable online tool supply sites which simply lifesavers for busy people like you. There really is no substitute for finding a place that carries every kind of tool you could possibly need.
Another way to find cheap tools is through clearance tools sales at major wholesale distributor. Wholesalers typically have the best prices to begin with, so when you catch that rare sale, you can be assured that there is no better price out there. It takes some searching, but it is well worth the effort if your goal is to build a good set.
Check careful when buying tools, especially when you buy electricity tools . You must find the tools with insulated rubber handle to avoid high voltage that might shock you. This is one of the most important things to look for when investing in these tools. These insulated rubber handle tools help to ensure that electrical currents are grounded and don’t pass through your body.
No matter what you fixing, electricity or water system, you must take the proper precautions to do all those fixing. You don’t want to get hurt right? One of the best ways to ensure your safety in high voltage conditions, for example, is to have the proper training and the proper tools for the job. Don’t mess around with what you doing, you must focus. And other warning when you work with electricity is to turn off the power at the source before you do anything else. Turning off the power reduces the risk of electrocution, electric shock, and fires.
Make your house a best place for you. Collect a set of tools in your house! You definitely need it someday. 1-800-AnyTyme recommends not proceeding on any repair without thorough knowledge of plumbing and electrical systems and procedures because of the high risk of injury or even death. Contact your local plumber or electrician before attempting any repairs yourself.
# Home Improvement: Ceiling Fans
Ceiling fans come in a wide variety of styles and colors to match any homeowners interior design wishes. They come with and without lighting. Three to five blades. In colors of black, white, brown, made of wood, covered with animal print fabric or styled with carved leaves.
Ceiling fans have come a long way since the industrial revolution where they were dreamed up by sweating factory workers. These workers attached wooden or metal blades to the overhead whirling shafts that were used to drive the machinery they worked on.
Ceiling fans are a great way to keep cool in the summer on those nights when you don’t have to run the air conditioner. Ceiling fans are much less noisy and obtrusive than box fans that sit on your floor or in your windows. And, you know that heat rises, right? Well, in the winter months running your fan on low and in reverse speed will bring down the heat that accumulates up in at the ceiling, helping you to feel warmer.
Before you purchase a ceiling fan you’ll need to consider the blade sweep. You don’t want to overwhelm a smaller room with a ceiling fan that’s too big, but, you also want to make sure that the ceiling fan will be able to displace enough air to cool you off in a larger room. Another consideration before purchasing a ceiling fan is the length it will drop from the ceiling. A home with an 8 foot ceiling would probably use a three inch down rod for a ceiling fan, and a room with a fifteen foot high ceiling would need at least a one foot down rod, up to a five foot down rod. It is suggested that you have at least seven feet of clearance from the floor to avoid accidents.
Installing a ceiling fan yourself is a fairly easy job for most do-it- yourselfer’s. There are many online sites available to help you if you have any problems or questions. If you plan on trying to fix an electrical problem yourself, which we don’t recommend due to the obvious safety hazards, read through our Electrical Safety Tips and Hazards to get an over-view of what not to do. Safety First!
Want to know what to look for in an electrician? As a homeowner, you’re responsible for all home electrical repairs. It is your responsibility that you protect yourself and those who live with you. The following electrician checklist should help provide you with valuable information about how to hire an electrician.
# Energy Efficiency Lighting
Lighting accounts for 20% to 25% of all electricity consumed in the United States. An average household dedicates 5% to 10% of its energy budget to lighting, while commercial establishments consume 20% to 30% of their total energy just for lighting.
In a typical residential or commercial lighting installation, 50% or more of the energy efficiency is wasted by obsolete equipment, inadequate maintenance, or inefficient use. Learn how you can accomplish energy efficiency lighting.
# San Diego Electricians
Our San Diego electricians install, test, and maintain electrical systems.
In the past electricians chose to work either in construction or maintenance. Today many work in both. In general, construction electricians assemble and install electrical systems. At 1-800-AnyTyme in San Diego, CA, most of our electricians are maintenance electricians that maintain and repair systems.
Maintenance electricians keep electrical systems and equipment in good working order. They inspect equipment and fix any problems that they find. They also check equipment for safety and warn managers when equipment is not safe. They may install new electrical equipment. When breakdowns occur, they work quickly to find the problem and make the repair. They use equipment such as oscilloscopes to diagnose problems. They may change items such as circuit breakers, fuses, electrical components, or wire. When working on complex electronic devices, they may consult engineers or industrial machinery repairers.
# Get Everything Done Quickly Using Your Basic Tools
No one wants to have their house equipment broken. But it might happen if your electricity goes off or your water system stops working properly due to a broken or improper installation. You then realize it will take a whole day to wait for your electricians or plumbers to come. So, what should you do?
Don’t wait until your family cried loud for light or water. You have to make a quick move. You must check the cause of the trouble, so once the electrician or the plumber came they will know the problem quickly. If you can fix it, that’s a bonus. But to do so, you have to own a set of basic tools in your place. Make sure you have the basic tools that mostly used by electricians and plumbers such as wire snippers, needle-nose pliers, screwdrivers, stripping tools, tubing cutters, and pliers.
Having basic tools in your house indeed will make your life easier. You can use it to fix not only electricity and water system but also everything broken in your house. The problem is finding a cheap price of tools. You realize collecting tools take some times and also expensive. Where can you find cheap price in a situation where oil price is outrages…oh my…
Don’t get upset yet, if you want to stock up your toolbox for a home improvement project you have to be diligent checking the Internet. There are a lot of reputable online tool supply sites which simply lifesavers for busy people like you. There really is no substitute for finding a place that carries every kind of tool you could possibly need.
Another way to find cheap tools is through clearance tools sales at major wholesale distributor. Wholesalers typically have the best prices to begin with, so when you catch that rare sale, you can be assured that there is no better price out there. It takes some searching, but it is well worth the effort if your goal is to build a good set.
Check careful when buying tools, especially when you buy electricity tools . You must find the tools with insulated rubber handle to avoid high voltage that might shock you. This is one of the most important things to look for when investing in these tools. These insulated rubber handle tools help to ensure that electrical currents are grounded and don’t pass through your body.
No matter what you fixing, electricity or water system, you must take the proper precautions to do all those fixing. You don’t want to get hurt right? One of the best ways to ensure your safety in high voltage conditions, for example, is to have the proper training and the proper tools for the job. Don’t mess around with what you doing, you must focus. And other warning when you work with electricity is to turn off the power at the source before you do anything else. Turning off the power reduces the risk of electrocution, electric shock, and fires.
Make your house a best place for you. Collect a set of tools in your house! You definitely need it someday. 1-800-AnyTyme recommends not proceeding on any repair without thorough knowledge of plumbing and electrical systems and procedures because of the high risk of injury or even death. Contact your local plumber or electrician before attempting any repairs yourself.
# Home Improvement: Ceiling Fans
Ceiling fans come in a wide variety of styles and colors to match any homeowners interior design wishes. They come with and without lighting. Three to five blades. In colors of black, white, brown, made of wood, covered with animal print fabric or styled with carved leaves.
Ceiling fans have come a long way since the industrial revolution where they were dreamed up by sweating factory workers. These workers attached wooden or metal blades to the overhead whirling shafts that were used to drive the machinery they worked on.
Ceiling fans are a great way to keep cool in the summer on those nights when you don’t have to run the air conditioner. Ceiling fans are much less noisy and obtrusive than box fans that sit on your floor or in your windows. And, you know that heat rises, right? Well, in the winter months running your fan on low and in reverse speed will bring down the heat that accumulates up in at the ceiling, helping you to feel warmer.
Before you purchase a ceiling fan you’ll need to consider the blade sweep. You don’t want to overwhelm a smaller room with a ceiling fan that’s too big, but, you also want to make sure that the ceiling fan will be able to displace enough air to cool you off in a larger room. Another consideration before purchasing a ceiling fan is the length it will drop from the ceiling. A home with an 8 foot ceiling would probably use a three inch down rod for a ceiling fan, and a room with a fifteen foot high ceiling would need at least a one foot down rod, up to a five foot down rod. It is suggested that you have at least seven feet of clearance from the floor to avoid accidents.
Installing a ceiling fan yourself is a fairly easy job for most do-it- yourselfer’s. There are many online sites available to help you if you have any problems or questions. If you plan on trying to fix an electrical problem yourself, which we don’t recommend due to the obvious safety hazards, read through our Electrical Safety Tips and Hazards to get an over-view of what not to do. Safety First!
Sunday, February 1, 2009
Should the ground lug on a receptacle be up or down?...
There are good arguments for both sides of this issue. The reason i chose to take this side is because of having to replace some receptacles because they were shorted out with the ground lug down. That is why i believe you are better off having it up. This way if the plug is not inserted all the way, or becomes loose, it would give some protection against falling metal objects going across the live and neutral blades and shorting them out. They would land on the ground lug of the plug first. One of the reasons for putting the ground lug down is, there is less of a chance that the plug will come loose, and disconnect the ground connection.
How can i save money on my electric bill?...
The most electricity in your home is used by Electric Heat, Air conditioners, Electric Hot Water and your Electric Dryer. You could help by getting an automatic thermostat. Those long showers are nice but there costing you extra money. Do you really need to run that dryer that often? One other thing that could cause a problem would be a bad breaker or loose connections at the breaker.
Depending on what part of the country you live in, heating and cooling are the largest contributors to most household energy bills and are the best places you can look to save money. After making sure your home is well insulated, make sure your heating and cooling systems are running efficiently and central systems are checked annually.
To keep equipment running efficiently, keep heating and cooling air ducts clean and outdoor equipment free from dirt and other debris.
A balanced load in your electrical panel. Also the homeowners habits of electrical use. What is on? At what times? Can save money on your electric bill.
How to figure Kilowatt Hours!
Watts = Volts x Amps and the kilo in kilowatts stands for 1,000. Take the voltage, times the amperage, and divide the result by 1,000. This will give you the kilowatt usage per hour of any electric motor or other electric device.
How to read the utility electric meter!
Most electric meters are clockface, which means they use clockfaces instead of actual numbers. There are usually five clocks. Reading the clock faces from left to right, note the number the hand is pointing to. If the hand is between two numbers, note the lower number. If the number on each meter left to right was 1 2 3 4 5. Than your meter read is 12,345 KWh. And the next month it was 1 2 4 4 5, you would have used 100 KWh.
These are some approximate wattage values for appliances.
Appliance and wattage
Lighting - Emergency= 500 Watts
Lighting - Basic= 1200 Watts
Lighting - Full= 4000 Watts
Furnace - Gas= 750 Watts
Electric Heat= 5000 Watts
Heat Pump= 5000 Watts
Electric Water Heater= 5000 Watts
Security System= 20 Watts
Portable Radio= 15 Watts
Cordless Telephone= 15 Watts
Refrigrator - 20 Cu Ft= 800 Watts
Freezer - 20 Cu Ft= 550 Watts
Sump Pump= 900 Watts
Well Pump ½ HP= 1000 Watts
Well Pump 1HP= 2000 Watts
Garage Door Opener ½ HP= 400 Watts
Microwave Oven 800W= 1200 Watts
Microwave Oven 1000W= 1500 Watts
Coffee Maker= 900 Watts
Dishwasher= 1400 Watts
Toaster= 900 Watts
Computer= 250 Watts
Electric Range-1Burner= 1400 Watts
Electric Range Oven= 7500 Watts
TV - 13" Color= 70 Watts
TV - 32" Color= 170 Watts
VCR= 60 Watts
Stereo System= 140 Watts
Clothes Iron= 1100 Watts
Electric Clothes Dryer= 6000 Watts
Gas Clothes Dryer= 720 Watts
Washing Machine= 1000 Watts
Hair Dryer= 1600 Watts
Air Conditioning 1 Ton= 2000 Watts
Air Conditioning 2 Ton= 3000 Watts
Air Conditioning 3 Ton= 4500 Watts
Window A/C= 2000 Watts
Ceiling Fan= 100 Watts
Vacuum Cleaner= 780 Watts
Central Vacuum= 1750 Watts
Depending on what part of the country you live in, heating and cooling are the largest contributors to most household energy bills and are the best places you can look to save money. After making sure your home is well insulated, make sure your heating and cooling systems are running efficiently and central systems are checked annually.
To keep equipment running efficiently, keep heating and cooling air ducts clean and outdoor equipment free from dirt and other debris.
A balanced load in your electrical panel. Also the homeowners habits of electrical use. What is on? At what times? Can save money on your electric bill.
How to figure Kilowatt Hours!
Watts = Volts x Amps and the kilo in kilowatts stands for 1,000. Take the voltage, times the amperage, and divide the result by 1,000. This will give you the kilowatt usage per hour of any electric motor or other electric device.
How to read the utility electric meter!
Most electric meters are clockface, which means they use clockfaces instead of actual numbers. There are usually five clocks. Reading the clock faces from left to right, note the number the hand is pointing to. If the hand is between two numbers, note the lower number. If the number on each meter left to right was 1 2 3 4 5. Than your meter read is 12,345 KWh. And the next month it was 1 2 4 4 5, you would have used 100 KWh.
These are some approximate wattage values for appliances.
Appliance and wattage
Lighting - Emergency= 500 Watts
Lighting - Basic= 1200 Watts
Lighting - Full= 4000 Watts
Furnace - Gas= 750 Watts
Electric Heat= 5000 Watts
Heat Pump= 5000 Watts
Electric Water Heater= 5000 Watts
Security System= 20 Watts
Portable Radio= 15 Watts
Cordless Telephone= 15 Watts
Refrigrator - 20 Cu Ft= 800 Watts
Freezer - 20 Cu Ft= 550 Watts
Sump Pump= 900 Watts
Well Pump ½ HP= 1000 Watts
Well Pump 1HP= 2000 Watts
Garage Door Opener ½ HP= 400 Watts
Microwave Oven 800W= 1200 Watts
Microwave Oven 1000W= 1500 Watts
Coffee Maker= 900 Watts
Dishwasher= 1400 Watts
Toaster= 900 Watts
Computer= 250 Watts
Electric Range-1Burner= 1400 Watts
Electric Range Oven= 7500 Watts
TV - 13" Color= 70 Watts
TV - 32" Color= 170 Watts
VCR= 60 Watts
Stereo System= 140 Watts
Clothes Iron= 1100 Watts
Electric Clothes Dryer= 6000 Watts
Gas Clothes Dryer= 720 Watts
Washing Machine= 1000 Watts
Hair Dryer= 1600 Watts
Air Conditioning 1 Ton= 2000 Watts
Air Conditioning 2 Ton= 3000 Watts
Air Conditioning 3 Ton= 4500 Watts
Window A/C= 2000 Watts
Ceiling Fan= 100 Watts
Vacuum Cleaner= 780 Watts
Central Vacuum= 1750 Watts
How Safe is Aluminum wire?...
Aluminum wire is still approved by the N.E.C. But this on the assumption that everything will be done perfect. Having said that i would like to give a little advice on using aluminum wire when you are building a new home. For the sake of saving a few dollars, it is not worth the safety hazard you face when using this wire. This is not only my opinion but the opinion of many others in the trade. Many times i have been called to repair corroded connections using this wire. Most of the time the aluminum wire had to be replaced with copper. One other piece of advice, before you consider buying a home with aluminum wire you might want to check with the insurance company. Some of them may refuse to insure a house with aluminum wire.
There are a lot of homes that have been wired with aluminum wiring and it would not be financially possible to rewire the entire house or service. There are a few things you can do to make sure that the wiring is not becoming a problem. You should be on the lookout for devices or lighting going on and off. Breakers or outlets overheating. Have the main panel checked for corrosion or loose connections. When adding copper devices or wire to aluminum, make sure this work is done by someone who knows the proper procedure for this type of wiring. A little preventative maintenance can go a long way in preventing future safety hazards.
The article below was sent in by a rep. for an aluminum company.
Bob, Thanks for the information you've made available on your site. If possible, you may want to update the information regarding aluminum building wire. Nearly 95% of residential homes built today are using aluminum cable for Service Entrance. The aluminum building wire in use today (the only one approved by the NEC) is the 8000 Series aluminum alloy. Even though this cable is approved for sizes 12 AWG and larger, no manufacturer produces sizes smaller than #8 (for SEU cable)and #6 AWG for single conductor.
I agree, that if someone has aluminum cable in a house older than,say, the mid eighties, chances are it is NOT 8000 series. The previous product was actually the same aluminum utility cable (EC1350) that is still used on power lines today. However, it was a mis-application to bring this product into a house for switches and receptacles. The Aluminum Association, along with cable manufacturers, and CONNECTOR manufacturers set out to rectify this problem, resulting in the 8000 series alloy in use today. Here in Florida, projects ranging from single family homes to Raymond James Stadium, are incoporating 8000 Series for electrical feeders. Just thought you should know.
Here is another opinion from an electrician.
I think your stand on aluminum wire is wrong or stated wrong. I would never use copper in a direct burial service wire. In a case where the wire insulation is damaged underground, both will fail. But copper will "spin" the meter for much longer, causing brown-outs and possible equipment damage over a longer time.
There are a lot of homes that have been wired with aluminum wiring and it would not be financially possible to rewire the entire house or service. There are a few things you can do to make sure that the wiring is not becoming a problem. You should be on the lookout for devices or lighting going on and off. Breakers or outlets overheating. Have the main panel checked for corrosion or loose connections. When adding copper devices or wire to aluminum, make sure this work is done by someone who knows the proper procedure for this type of wiring. A little preventative maintenance can go a long way in preventing future safety hazards.
The article below was sent in by a rep. for an aluminum company.
Bob, Thanks for the information you've made available on your site. If possible, you may want to update the information regarding aluminum building wire. Nearly 95% of residential homes built today are using aluminum cable for Service Entrance. The aluminum building wire in use today (the only one approved by the NEC) is the 8000 Series aluminum alloy. Even though this cable is approved for sizes 12 AWG and larger, no manufacturer produces sizes smaller than #8 (for SEU cable)and #6 AWG for single conductor.
I agree, that if someone has aluminum cable in a house older than,say, the mid eighties, chances are it is NOT 8000 series. The previous product was actually the same aluminum utility cable (EC1350) that is still used on power lines today. However, it was a mis-application to bring this product into a house for switches and receptacles. The Aluminum Association, along with cable manufacturers, and CONNECTOR manufacturers set out to rectify this problem, resulting in the 8000 series alloy in use today. Here in Florida, projects ranging from single family homes to Raymond James Stadium, are incoporating 8000 Series for electrical feeders. Just thought you should know.
Here is another opinion from an electrician.
I think your stand on aluminum wire is wrong or stated wrong. I would never use copper in a direct burial service wire. In a case where the wire insulation is damaged underground, both will fail. But copper will "spin" the meter for much longer, causing brown-outs and possible equipment damage over a longer time.
Where do you install smoke detectors?...
Here is some information on where to install smoke detectors. Some local codes may vary, so check first.
Wall-mounted units should be mounted so that the top of the detector is 4 to 12 inches from the ceiling. A ceiling-mounted detector should be attached at least four inches from the nearest wall. In a room with a pitched ceiling, mount the detector at or near the ceiling's highest point. Place the detector near the bedrooms, within 15 feet of sleeping areas. The National Fire Alarm Code, developed by NFPA, requires a smoke detector in each sleeping room for new construction. it is a good idea to place one on each level of the house. Also additional detectors can be installed near the furnace and washer and dryer. Because smoke rises, mount detectors high on a wall or on the ceiling. Place them in an area away from air vents The basement ceiling near the steps to the first level is a good location. But don't install the detector at the top of the basement stairs where there is a closed door, dead air space near the door may prevent smoke from reaching the detector.
There is more to checking a smoke detector than just pushing the test button. Dust and even small insects can sometimes block a photoeye type or ionization type of smoke detector. They also should be cleaned periodically. Dont go to long before changing batteries. If they are hard wired make sure they have a battery back up. Smoke detectors should not be taken lightly. They could save your life.
Wall-mounted units should be mounted so that the top of the detector is 4 to 12 inches from the ceiling. A ceiling-mounted detector should be attached at least four inches from the nearest wall. In a room with a pitched ceiling, mount the detector at or near the ceiling's highest point. Place the detector near the bedrooms, within 15 feet of sleeping areas. The National Fire Alarm Code, developed by NFPA, requires a smoke detector in each sleeping room for new construction. it is a good idea to place one on each level of the house. Also additional detectors can be installed near the furnace and washer and dryer. Because smoke rises, mount detectors high on a wall or on the ceiling. Place them in an area away from air vents The basement ceiling near the steps to the first level is a good location. But don't install the detector at the top of the basement stairs where there is a closed door, dead air space near the door may prevent smoke from reaching the detector.
There is more to checking a smoke detector than just pushing the test button. Dust and even small insects can sometimes block a photoeye type or ionization type of smoke detector. They also should be cleaned periodically. Dont go to long before changing batteries. If they are hard wired make sure they have a battery back up. Smoke detectors should not be taken lightly. They could save your life.
How should outlets be installed in a kitchen area?...
All 15 and 20 receptacles installed within 6 feet of a kitchen sink or wetbar shall have G.F.C.I. protection. Receptacles in a kitchen used to serve counter tops should be supplied with at least two 20 amp branch circuits, for small appliances. Each fixed appliance (refrigerator, stove, dish washer) shall have its own dedicated circuit. On counter tops 12 inches or wider a receptacle shall be installed so that there is no more than 24 inches between outlets. Receptacles outlets installed to serve island counter tops shall be installed above, or within 12 inches below the counter top. There shall be no more than 24 inches from center line of counter top. No receptacle shall be installed face up on a sink counter top.
How many convenience outlets in each room?...
In every kitchen, family room, dining room, living room, parlor, library, den, bedroom, or similar room or area of dwelling units, receptacle outlets shall be installed so that no point along the floor line in any wall space there is more than six feet, from an outlet in that space. This is to prevent the use of extension cords. Outlets are usually placed about 18 inches above floor level. Switches usually go about 48 inches from floor level. For convenience outlets each single receptacle in a single branch circuit is usually figured for 1.5 amps, duplex outlets for 3 amps in estimating total amperage for that circuit. Air conditioners should be on a single dedicated circuit.
Do i need to spend all this money?...
Shop around.If you want something done ask the price first. Get an estimate before the job is started.If they don't want to give you an answer go somewhere else. I know it cost a lot money but find out what an eletrician has to go through to get his license and the chances he takes while working on electricity, You will understand why they charge so much.
How much should i attempt on my own?...
This will not make me very popular but it is the truth. Without a license, not very much. At The present time most states allow you to do whatever you want in your own home. But doing electrical work yourself is a gamble. How much are you willing to risk to save money. There is a reason why it takes so much training to become an electrician. Do not make a mistake by taking electricity lightly, even the smallest job could be a safety hazard. Why take a chance. Get a professional to do this work. Also In some states the homeowner can pull his own Electrical permit for work in his single family home, what he does not know is that in case of damage or fire caused by his work, his homeowners insurance will not pay, they will only if the work is done by a licensed Electrical Contractor. You should check with your homeowners Insurance Co., and they should sign a document or something to this effect to acknowledge this when they pull a permit. The most dangerous time is when you tell yourself. This is easy. I can do it myself. Why should i get an electrician? Than when you don't remember where all those wires went, or your hair is standing straight up, you say to yourself. Well maybe we better call someone to straighten up this mess. Now it will cost you double what you thought you were going to save in the beginning.Special Note.... It is a violation for a licensed electrician or systems technician to connect wiring from components that have been wired by an unlicensed person. Doing electrical work without a permit is illegal in most areas. It could also invalidate your homeowner's insurance.
Can you use a G.F.I. in an ungrounded outlet?...
The N.E.C. allows a G.F.C.I. to be used in an outlet with a two wire ungrounded cable, but this might not be that great an idea for several reasons.
First: The ground lug on a G.F.C.I. receptacle might give the false impression that the outlet has a grounding wire.
Second: The surge surpressors used for computers and other electronic equipment require a properly installed grounding wire to work correctly.
There are several other ways to ground outlets. Here is a couple of them. First...Find out if the metal box that holds the receptacles has a proper ground, if it does you can either run a pigtail from the threaded screw in the box to the ground on your receptacle, or install a self grounded type receptacle. Second...And possibly the best and safest way is to run grounded cable back to your panel for each branch circuit. Whichever way you decide to go, these outlets should be grounded for your own safety.
First: The ground lug on a G.F.C.I. receptacle might give the false impression that the outlet has a grounding wire.
Second: The surge surpressors used for computers and other electronic equipment require a properly installed grounding wire to work correctly.
There are several other ways to ground outlets. Here is a couple of them. First...Find out if the metal box that holds the receptacles has a proper ground, if it does you can either run a pigtail from the threaded screw in the box to the ground on your receptacle, or install a self grounded type receptacle. Second...And possibly the best and safest way is to run grounded cable back to your panel for each branch circuit. Whichever way you decide to go, these outlets should be grounded for your own safety.
Where do you put G.F.I.'s?...
Any bathroom or garage outlet within 6' of a sink must be GFCI protected. The code also requires all kitchen outlets for countertop use to be GFCI protected. GFCI outlets must be installed in any area where electricity and water may come into contact, including basements, pools, spas, utility rooms, attached garages and outdoors. At least one GFCI outlet is required in an unfinished basement and for most outdoor outlets.
The are two types of GFCIs in homes, the GFCI outlet and the GFCI circuit breaker. Both do the same job, but each has different applications and limitations.
The GFCI outlet is actually a replacement for a standard electrical outlet. A GFCI is not dependent of a ground to function. It does not measure shorts to the ground, it measures the current difference between the hot and neutral wires. A sudden difference of 5 ma. or more, indicating that there is another path for the electricity to flow through will trip this device. The only downside to this is there may be some nuisance tripping in highly inductive loads like large motors or even fluorescent lamps or fixtures on the same circuit. But the newer models seemed to have corrected this somewhat.
It protects any appliance plugged into it, and can also be wired to protect other outlets that are connected to it. The GFCI circuit breaker controls an entire circuit, and is installed as a replacement for a circuit breaker on your home's main circuit board. Rather than install multiple GFCI outlets, one GFCI circuit breaker can protect the entire circuit. There is a test button and a reset button on these units. If you press the test button the reset should pop out. To reset just push the reset button in.
Not a good idea to put lights on GFCI. protected circuits so you aren't left in the dark if the circuit trips. Generally, equipment such as refrigerators, freezers and sump pumps that cannot go without electrical power for an extended period of time without causing costly losses or property damage should not be placed on a GFCI. protected circuit. GFCIs are very sensitive and are subject to nuisance tripping. GFCI receptacles don't last outdoors even under the best of conditions. Be sure to test the device using the "test" button before you use one.
You can learn more how these work by going to FAQ#7 and Electrical Safety.
As of January 1, 2002, The National Electrical Code , Section 210-12, requires that all branch circuits supplying 125V, single phase, 15 and 20 ampere outlets installed in dwelling unit bedrooms be protected by an arc-fault Circuit interrupter. Eventually they will be in more areas but the bedroom is a good place to start. The AFCI. (Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter) breaker, will shut off a circuit in a fraction of a second if arcing develops. The current inside of an arc is not always high enough to trip a regular breaker.
The are two types of GFCIs in homes, the GFCI outlet and the GFCI circuit breaker. Both do the same job, but each has different applications and limitations.
The GFCI outlet is actually a replacement for a standard electrical outlet. A GFCI is not dependent of a ground to function. It does not measure shorts to the ground, it measures the current difference between the hot and neutral wires. A sudden difference of 5 ma. or more, indicating that there is another path for the electricity to flow through will trip this device. The only downside to this is there may be some nuisance tripping in highly inductive loads like large motors or even fluorescent lamps or fixtures on the same circuit. But the newer models seemed to have corrected this somewhat.
It protects any appliance plugged into it, and can also be wired to protect other outlets that are connected to it. The GFCI circuit breaker controls an entire circuit, and is installed as a replacement for a circuit breaker on your home's main circuit board. Rather than install multiple GFCI outlets, one GFCI circuit breaker can protect the entire circuit. There is a test button and a reset button on these units. If you press the test button the reset should pop out. To reset just push the reset button in.
Not a good idea to put lights on GFCI. protected circuits so you aren't left in the dark if the circuit trips. Generally, equipment such as refrigerators, freezers and sump pumps that cannot go without electrical power for an extended period of time without causing costly losses or property damage should not be placed on a GFCI. protected circuit. GFCIs are very sensitive and are subject to nuisance tripping. GFCI receptacles don't last outdoors even under the best of conditions. Be sure to test the device using the "test" button before you use one.
You can learn more how these work by going to FAQ#7 and Electrical Safety.
As of January 1, 2002, The National Electrical Code , Section 210-12, requires that all branch circuits supplying 125V, single phase, 15 and 20 ampere outlets installed in dwelling unit bedrooms be protected by an arc-fault Circuit interrupter. Eventually they will be in more areas but the bedroom is a good place to start. The AFCI. (Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter) breaker, will shut off a circuit in a fraction of a second if arcing develops. The current inside of an arc is not always high enough to trip a regular breaker.
What size service do i install in my home?...
Most states call for 100 amps minimum, but with all the new electronic devices, air conditioning and electric heat, I would suggest 200 amps especially in new homes. This also gives you some space for future additions. This is not a job for an unlicensed person to attempt. In most cases it involves replacing everything from the service loop (this is the wire that extends from the top of your meter to the utility tie in ) up to and including the main panel.
Depending on the layout of the house and the area upgrading to a 200 amp service could cost anywhere between 800 to 1,500 dollars.
Rewiring an entire house, again depending on the layout of the home could cost between 2,000 and 4,000 dollars. These are just rough estimates.
Depending on the layout of the house and the area upgrading to a 200 amp service could cost anywhere between 800 to 1,500 dollars.
Rewiring an entire house, again depending on the layout of the home could cost between 2,000 and 4,000 dollars. These are just rough estimates.
What is a bonded electrician?...
A bond is an insurance policy for which the contractor pays a premium. It guarantees that the contractor will meet his obligations in a satisfactory manner. Failure to do so should result in the payment of compensation by the bonding company. There are three types of bonds, payment bond, performance bond and bid bond.
Being bonded could be like getting an insurance policy that the job 1: will be completed and 2: will be done properly. Larger commercial and almost all government jobs will require that all contractors and sub-contractors be Licensed, insured, and bonded. If you can find a bonded electrician you have a good chance the job will be done properly.
One of the problems is depending on the cost of the job, the fees a bonding company charges could be high and this may be passed on to you the customer.
Actually the quality of any good electricians work should be guaranteed until he or she dies. If you do have a problem with faulty work with any bonded contractor, try to get the name of the agent who put out the bond for this particular job.
Being bonded could be like getting an insurance policy that the job 1: will be completed and 2: will be done properly. Larger commercial and almost all government jobs will require that all contractors and sub-contractors be Licensed, insured, and bonded. If you can find a bonded electrician you have a good chance the job will be done properly.
One of the problems is depending on the cost of the job, the fees a bonding company charges could be high and this may be passed on to you the customer.
Actually the quality of any good electricians work should be guaranteed until he or she dies. If you do have a problem with faulty work with any bonded contractor, try to get the name of the agent who put out the bond for this particular job.
How do i find a good electrician?...
Before we start here, you have to keep in mind, that you are the customer and as long as you are paying for a service to be performed and the work is up to code, you can have anything you want. You are the boss.
Another way to protect yourself is never pay the full amount of the work to be done up front. If the electrician demands money before he starts do not give more than ten percent. Always hold some back until the job is complete.
It will be hard to get large contractors to do the smaller jobs at a reasonable price. There are many excellent electricians in classified ads, or yellow pages. Also word of mouth is a good way. Check with people and friends who have had electrical work done. Do your homework, the first thing you do is make they have a license. Then be sure they are insured. If you could get one that is Bonded would definitley be a plus. And always make sure you make them get a permit so their work can be checked by the local wire inspector. This is your responsibility to check out these things, if you want electrical work done safely, and properly. Electricity is not something to fool with, be safe.
Another way to protect yourself is never pay the full amount of the work to be done up front. If the electrician demands money before he starts do not give more than ten percent. Always hold some back until the job is complete.
It will be hard to get large contractors to do the smaller jobs at a reasonable price. There are many excellent electricians in classified ads, or yellow pages. Also word of mouth is a good way. Check with people and friends who have had electrical work done. Do your homework, the first thing you do is make they have a license. Then be sure they are insured. If you could get one that is Bonded would definitley be a plus. And always make sure you make them get a permit so their work can be checked by the local wire inspector. This is your responsibility to check out these things, if you want electrical work done safely, and properly. Electricity is not something to fool with, be safe.
Doorbells
Typical Doorbell System
The parts of a typical doorbell system are the push button, the door bell, chimes or buzzer and the transformer. The transformer allows the doorbell to operate on low voltage (6 to 24 volts.) Wired into the doorbell circuit at a junction box, it steps down the voltage from the regular 120-volt circuit. When your doorbell doesn't ring, or rings constantly, the problem may lie in one of the parts or in the wires that connect them. NOTE: To diagnose most doorbell problems, you'll need to have the power source connected. But if you're going to work on the transformer or the wires in the junction box, be sure to shut off the power to the circuit. Remember that the input side of the transformer is high voltage, 120 volts.
When the Doorbell is Silent
The first place to look is the source of power. Make sure a fuse or circuit breaker hasn't blown or tripped. Once you're certain that the 120-volt side of the transformer is getting power, shut off the power and tighten all wire connections. Turn the power back on and check the low-voltage side, following the steps below to find the source of the trouble.
Testing the Transformer
* Use a volt-ohm meter. If the transformer is working correctly, the meter reading should match the secondary voltage (6 to 24 volts) marked on the transformer or bell.
* Set the voltage range on the meter to 120 volts AC and measure the voltage between the two low-voltage terminals on the transformer.
* If the meter reads significantly higher than the correct secondary voltage, the transformer is defective and should be replaced.
* If the reading is close to the correct secondary voltage, test again by setting the voltage range on the meter to a lower value. If the new reading doesn't agree with the voltage marked on the transformer or bell, replace the transformer.
Testing the Push Button
* Disconnect the two wires connected to the button and short them by touching their bare ends together.
* If this makes the bell ring, the push button is defective and should be replaced.
* If the bell doesn't ring, the problem is either in the bell or chime mechanism or in the wiring.
Testing the Bell or Chime Mechanism
* Have a helper push the doorbell button while you listen to the bell. If it makes a buzzing or humming noise, it may be gummed up with dirt.
* Check the mechanism and clean it as necessary using fine-grade sandpaper to remove corrosion form any contacts.
* If the bell still hums or buzzes after cleaning, replace it.
* If the bell doesn't make any noise at all when the button is pushed, disconnect the bell and, using new wire, hook it up directly to the transformer. If it works, inspect the old wiring. If it doesn't, replace it.
Repairing the Wiring
* Examine the wiring for breaks or frayed insulation that may be causing the wires to short out.
* Repair any breaks and wrap the repairs with electrician's tape.
A Constantly Ringing Doorbell
If a doorbell rings constantly, either the button is stuck or the wires going to the button are shorted together. To test follow these steps:
* Test the button by turning off the power to the transformer.
* Remove the button from the door frame and disconnect one of the two wires connected to it.
* Turn the power back on. If the bell doesn't ring, the button should be replaced. If the bell rings, the problem is a short between the two wires.
* With the power turned off, examine the wires for frayed insulation or bare wires rubbing together.
* Use electrician's tape to wrap them where necessary.
* If you can't find the short, replace the wires.
The parts of a typical doorbell system are the push button, the door bell, chimes or buzzer and the transformer. The transformer allows the doorbell to operate on low voltage (6 to 24 volts.) Wired into the doorbell circuit at a junction box, it steps down the voltage from the regular 120-volt circuit. When your doorbell doesn't ring, or rings constantly, the problem may lie in one of the parts or in the wires that connect them. NOTE: To diagnose most doorbell problems, you'll need to have the power source connected. But if you're going to work on the transformer or the wires in the junction box, be sure to shut off the power to the circuit. Remember that the input side of the transformer is high voltage, 120 volts.
When the Doorbell is Silent
The first place to look is the source of power. Make sure a fuse or circuit breaker hasn't blown or tripped. Once you're certain that the 120-volt side of the transformer is getting power, shut off the power and tighten all wire connections. Turn the power back on and check the low-voltage side, following the steps below to find the source of the trouble.
Testing the Transformer
* Use a volt-ohm meter. If the transformer is working correctly, the meter reading should match the secondary voltage (6 to 24 volts) marked on the transformer or bell.
* Set the voltage range on the meter to 120 volts AC and measure the voltage between the two low-voltage terminals on the transformer.
* If the meter reads significantly higher than the correct secondary voltage, the transformer is defective and should be replaced.
* If the reading is close to the correct secondary voltage, test again by setting the voltage range on the meter to a lower value. If the new reading doesn't agree with the voltage marked on the transformer or bell, replace the transformer.
Testing the Push Button
* Disconnect the two wires connected to the button and short them by touching their bare ends together.
* If this makes the bell ring, the push button is defective and should be replaced.
* If the bell doesn't ring, the problem is either in the bell or chime mechanism or in the wiring.
Testing the Bell or Chime Mechanism
* Have a helper push the doorbell button while you listen to the bell. If it makes a buzzing or humming noise, it may be gummed up with dirt.
* Check the mechanism and clean it as necessary using fine-grade sandpaper to remove corrosion form any contacts.
* If the bell still hums or buzzes after cleaning, replace it.
* If the bell doesn't make any noise at all when the button is pushed, disconnect the bell and, using new wire, hook it up directly to the transformer. If it works, inspect the old wiring. If it doesn't, replace it.
Repairing the Wiring
* Examine the wiring for breaks or frayed insulation that may be causing the wires to short out.
* Repair any breaks and wrap the repairs with electrician's tape.
A Constantly Ringing Doorbell
If a doorbell rings constantly, either the button is stuck or the wires going to the button are shorted together. To test follow these steps:
* Test the button by turning off the power to the transformer.
* Remove the button from the door frame and disconnect one of the two wires connected to it.
* Turn the power back on. If the bell doesn't ring, the button should be replaced. If the bell rings, the problem is a short between the two wires.
* With the power turned off, examine the wires for frayed insulation or bare wires rubbing together.
* Use electrician's tape to wrap them where necessary.
* If you can't find the short, replace the wires.
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